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Anastasia Gerolymatou doesn't only believe that 'Age is just a number'; she has become living proof of that saying. At 81 years of age, the Greek will have her name in the Guinness Book of Records after windsurfing from Kefalonia to Kyllini in the Peloponnese, last week.
 
The octogenarian athlete has 3 grandchildren, who are her main source of inspiration. 'I did it so my grandchildren can remember me for what I accomplished,' she says with pride.
 
Gerolymatou plans to keep windsurfing for as long as she is strong enough to do so. She watches what she eats and keeps herself busy by doing the things that she loves.

To read this article in full, please visit: Greek Reporter
Daylight saving time 2020 in Greece will begin at 3:00 AM on Sunday March 29. At 3:00 AM local time, clocks will turn to 4:00 AM as daylight saving time goes into effect across the European Union.

Since 80% of Europeans said they were opposed to the clock changes, the EU has ruled to discard the time changing practice by April 2021. Consequently, each Member State will have to decide whether to remain permanently on 'summer time' or to change their clocks to permanent standard time.

This content has been sourced and prepared by Codico Lab.
Friday, 02 October 2020 12:33

Exploring The Vineyards Around Athens

If you’re a wine lover, we’ve got some good news: The past 30 years have seen the renaissance of Greek wine, with an impressive array of exciting labels from all over Greece, so schedule your wine tour right now.
 
Μadrid may be the only capital in the world to have its own wine appellation, but Athens is still one of the few major cities to boast a vineyard on its doorstep. Although not as well-known as Vienna’s Heurige wine region, the Mesogaia valley, a mere 30km from downtown Athens, is covered with over 650 hectares of vines. You fly right over the vineyards as your plane lands at Athens International Airport. The Mesogaia vineyard, defined by Mount Pendeli to the north and Hymettus to the south, has been the capital’s purveyor of inexpensive, everyday wine for centuries.
 
Mesogaia is considered the birthplace of retsina. The local grape, the sturdy Savatiano, can produce excellent resinated wines and a wide range of non-resinated, dry whites. Over the past 30 years, there have been so many successful experimental vinifications of the Savatiano that it is now considered one of the most exquisite grapes Greece has to offer.
 
Two other areas on the outskirts of Athens have important vineyards: one to the north, extending from Stamata to the village of Afidnes, and one to the west, centered around the town of Megara.
 
At the turn of the 20th century, Attica was Greece’s most important wine-producing region. Sadly, most vineyards have now disappeared as the city expanded in all directions, especially from the mid-sixties onwards. When the Athens airport relocated to Spata in 200, more than 1,800 hectares of vineyards were sacrificed. However, this was offset by a decree ruling that all the surrounding land will remain farmland indefinitely. The legislation has saved many of the vineyards around Spata, Markopoulo, and Koropi.
 
Even though more than 40 wineries currently operate in the Mesogaia region and beyond, very few are open to visitors. On the plus side, they are so close to Athens that some of them can even be reached on public transport, although using a car is best if you want to drive through the vineyards and combine a visit to one or more wineries with other attractions and beaches nearby.

These Attica wineries are open to the public and available for tours and tastings. Call or email in advance to arrange your visit.

Ktima Kokotou

Ktima Kokotou is a lovely estate surrounded by nature, 23 km north of Athens. It was created by George and Anne Kokotos in 1980, and if you’re lucky you will be shown around by Anne, who is English and passionate about wine. The estate is known for its elegant and sophisticated produce. Wines that you must try: their flawless Savatiano, their elegant Chardonnay, and the award-winning Kokotos Estate Red.

Address: Kokotos Estate, Stamata, 145 75
Telephone: 210 8145113
Note: Wheelchair Accessible

Papagiannakos Winery

Vasilis Papagiannakos is the first winemaker in Greece to have built a bioclimatic winery, designed by award-winning architect Elena Stavropoulou. The building is beautiful and impressive, with lots of wood and big windows overlooking the vineyards. Wines here are very modern and popular on the export markets. Must try: a meaty Savatiano from old vines, an ultra-modern version of Retsina, and a truly impressive rosé called Granatus.

Address: Pythagora, Markopoulo, 190 03
Telephone: 22990 25206
Note: Wheelchair Accessible

Mylonas Winery

This proud-to-be-small winery was created in 1917 and is currently run by three Mylonas brothers who have made a name for themselves as ambassadors of the Savatiano grape. Winemaker Stamatis Mylonas doesn’t need much convincing to put together a vertical tasting of his Savatiano wines, proving what an exciting varietal this is. Also, unmissable is his steely Assyrtiko.

Address: 3 Ippokratous, Keratea, 190 01
Telephone: 22990 68156


To read more, please visit This is Athens

Whether you've just arrived in town – or have been here for years – Athens always has new secrets to share! This is Athens is the official guide to this captivating city of ancient energies and booming urban culture. Compiled by a team of specialist local writers, This is Athens brings you an authentic and intimate portrait of a living Athens beyond the guidebooks – along with daily curated listings of all the best events and great weekend inspiration all-year round. From must-know neighbourhoods and emerging art hubs, to gourmet hotspots, cool shopping and the buzziest bars, This is Athens will help you to get the most out of living in Athens!

Thank you This is Athens for your contribution as an 
XpatAthens Partner.
 
We're happy to announce a new Media Sponsorship collaboration with Run Messinia 2021 We thank them for their trust and amicable support!

Run Messinia is an ultramarathon race of a total distance of approximately 421 kilometers, a tribute to the important events and unforgettable battles of the heroes of 1821. On June 5-14, 2021, during the “Run for Freedom” edition, 10 athletes per route will attempt to run 10 marathons in total, in 10 consecutive days, crossing historical places and monuments of Messinia, Laconia, and Arcadia, which are related to the Greek revolution.

We love sharing events and letting our community know what's on in Athens and around Greece! Whether it’s art, music, sports, food & drink, or community events, our aim is to encourage people to embrace and experience all that Athens has to offer! We keep our readers up-to-date with what’s on, and what’s coming up in our great city.

Part of the work that we do at XpatAthens is to collaborate with many different venues, digital platforms and event planners/hosts as Media Sponsors - you're welcome to learn more and see our sponsorships here.


If you'd like to learn more about sharing your event on XpatAthens,
please contact us here to tell us more about your upcoming event.

 
Cyprus has opened its first underwater archaeological park, offering visitors a glimpse of history at one of the eastern Mediterranean’s best preserved ancient harbors.

The now-submerged harbor lying off the ancient city-kingdom of Amathus was constructed between 312/311 BC and 294 BC when Cyprus was the focus of conflict between the two successors of Alexander the Great. It was probably constructed as a naval base because of its narrow entrance, though experts say its combined commercial use cannot be dismissed either.

Over the centuries, it has developed into a natural reef where marine life thrives.

Originally published on: ekathimerini.com
Some things never change–and humor, luckily, is one thing that hasn’t changed a great deal over time, as we can see today by the comedies of ancient Greece. The ancient Greeks were known for exploring a wide range of comedic content, using the satire and farce that are just as funny today as they were in ancient times.

Tropes such as mistaken identity and, of course, the old standby, sex jokes, will never go out of style, as we can still see today. We have always needed an outlet for the stresses and troubles of life, and that was just as true two millennia ago as it is today.

Of course, politics will never cease to be a part of our lives and we see portrayals of politicians from the time of ancient Greece who may as well be behind the mahogany desks of today, all over the world, still wheeling and dealing.

And the battle of the sexes is absolutely nothing new, as we can plainly see in the comedies of the great writers of ancient Greece.

Lysistrata

Lysistrata is one of the comedies that has been translated the easiest throughout human history. Written by Aristophanes, the man who is known as the best Greek comedy writer of them all, this play has been reinterpreted and staged all over the world innumerable times even in the form of an opera. This play, which takes place during the Peloponnesian War, portrays Lysistrata, a woman who is tired of the constant, seemingly meaningless, fighting.

After deciding to take matters into her own hands, she persuades the women from all of the Greek city-states to join her in her effort to bring an end to the males’ unending wars. And, of course, she has to use one of the very few powers women had in those times–that they refuse to have sex with their husbands until they somehow call a halt to the hostilities.

Before too long, the men begin to suffer without the pleasures of being with their wives and agree to begin peace talks. However, they cannot leave quarreling and fighting behind, and they start to find fault with many of the terms of agreement. Lysistrata then comes up with the idea that she should parade a beautiful woman in front of them so that they would become so desperate they would sign almost anything. Naturally, Lysistrata wins that bet.

This immortal comedy was even remade recently into a dramatic movie, called “Chi-Raq.” Incredibly, Lysistrata was first performed in the year 411 BC–proving that human nature remains basically the same as in those days of old.

Thesmophoriazusae

Thesmophoriazusae, yet another masterpiece by Aristophanes, focuses on taking pot shots at the tragic poet Euripides. Using powerful women as protagonists, he has them deciding that they have been unfairly represented by Euripides as seducers, schemers, betrayers, or sometimes simply helpless victims–none of which these women are. The women decide to rise up and punish the great playwright for his misrepresentation of their gender.

Concerned, Euripides asks Mnesilochus to go disguised as a woman to the great female celebration of Thesmophoria, a fertility festival for women held every autumn that strictly prohibits any attendance by males.

Mnesilochus would be expected to speak in favor of the playwright there. In many different ways, including hilarious and sometimes painful methods, the hair is removed from his body and he is finally dressed like a woman. He then makes his appearance at the Thesmophoria, where he is supposed to hear the ladies start the festivities with a prayer that anyone who angers them be punished–especially poor Euripides.

The Frogs

The Frogs, another comedy by Aristophanes that has certainly stood the test of time, was first performed at Lenaia in the year 405 BC, taking first place in the theater competition. And this is no wonder, since its take on human nature is just as tru today as it was then.

The play tells the story of the Greek god Dionysus who is in complete despair over the loss of the tragic playwright Euripides, who had died just the year before. The Greek god visits his half-brother Heracles, asking advice on how he could to get to Hades so that he could bring Euripides back from the dead. Heracles tells him that he should either hang himself or jump off a tower as the fastest way to make it to the underworld. Instead, Dionysus chooses to travel across Lake Acheron — dressed in Heracles’ clothing.

While he voyages on the lake, a choral interlude is heard in which frogs croak their song. Dionysus is so annoyed by the sound of the frogs that he engages in a mock debate with them which is surely one of the highlights of the play. Naturally, when Dionysus reaches the underworld, he is mistaken for his brother Heracles by Aeacus, who is still angry that Heracles stole the dog Cerberus.

Dionysus then wisely trades clothes with his slave in order to having to fight Aeacus. But of course, as always happens in these cases of mistaken identity, a person — in this case a maid — then appears and mistakes Dionysus’ slave for Heracles. Of course, she then offers him a feast replete with virgins.

Of course, Dionysus then asks to trade clothes again but only ends up meeting yet more people who have reason to be angry with his brother. When Dionysus and the slave finally discover Euripides, he is arguing with Aeschylus about just who is the best tragic writer. The debate then prompts Dionysus to wonder which playwright he should actually bring back; so he judges a competition between the two brilliant wordsmiths. And, the competition of the two great playwrights retells some of the great tragic plays of Greek history as parodies, in a more unexpected twist.

To read this article in full, please visit: greekreporter.com
For many people, the idea of purposefully spending time alone can seem counterintuitive or even scary. However, delving into solitude is not an act of isolation but rather a "journey" to self-discovery and personal well-being. So why is spending time with yourself a valuable practice in the pursuit of a more meaningful and balanced life?




1. Self-Reflection & Personal Development

Time spent alone provides fertile ground for self-reflection. In the absence of external distractions, you can delve into your thoughts, feelings, and aspirations with greater energy. This introspective process is vital to personal growth as it allows you to understand yourself more deeply, identify areas for improvement, and begin the continuous journey to becoming the best version of yourself.

2. Emotional Resilience

Spending time with yourself allows you to face and process your feelings without outside influences. This self-awareness contributes to the development of emotional resilience. By recognizing and understanding your emotions, you cultivate the power to face life's challenges more effectively, fostering a sense of inner balance and stability.

3. Enhancing Creativity & Problem Solving

Solitude provides the mental space needed for creativity to flourish. When you are alone, you can explore new ideas and engage in truly innovative thinking. Additionally, quiet allows for focused problem solving as the mind can tackle challenges without external distractions, leading to more effective solutions.

4. Rediscovery & Exploration

A busy life often does not allow for the pursuit of personal interests. Spending time alone gives you a chance to rediscover these aspects of yourself. Whether it's engaging in a favorite hobby, exploring new interests, or simply making time for curiosity, these moments can rekindle a sense of joy and fulfillment.

5. Restoration of Mental & Emotional Well-Being

In the hyper-connected world we live in, constant interaction and external stimuli can lead to mental fatigue and emotional exhaustion. Solitude often provides a respite from this sensory overload, allowing for mental rejuvenation. It becomes a critical practice for maintaining overall well-being and preventing burnout.

Being alone does not mean being lonely or uncommunicative. It can quite simply mean that someone has realized the wealth they hide within themselves and finally want to explore it more!

Originally published in Greek on: loveyourselfmagazine.com


Love Yourself is a comprehensive Greek media platform dedicated to embracing mindstyle as its fundamental essence. It advocates for a wholesome lifestyle that nurtures not only our soul, mind, and body but also promotes a positive and sustainable attitude towards the planet we call home. For more information, visit Love Yourself's website!
By Ioannis Sampsonidis

Although contemporary Greek cuisine is often associated with rich meats, seafood, and dairy products, there is a rich history of vegan elements woven throughout traditional Greek cooking since ancient times.



Let’s Start At The Beginning: The Ancient Greek Cuisine

Ancient Greek cuisine was characterized by its frugality and was largely based on the “Mediterranean triad” of cereals (mainly wheat and barley), olives, and grapes, and leaned heavily towards consuming legumes and nuts. Olive trees have been grown and harvested in Greece since at least the mid-4th millennium BC, likely earlier, and the “golden liquid” of the Greek land, e.g.olive oil, was traded across the length and breadth of the Mediterranean throughout antiquity.

Ancient Greeks had simple meals and eating habits. They started their days with plain breakfasts of bread dipped in wine called akratisma, which was sometimes complemented by figs, dates, or olives. They also ate a sort of fried pancake called tiganitis, still popular as a breakfast today after 2.500 years!

Around noon or shortly after, they would have a quick meal called ariston with bread, olive oil, cheese, and fruit, and a snack called esperisma before their most important meal of the day, dinner or deipnon which included a selection of legumes, as well as bread, cheese, olives, eggs, fruits, and nuts.

Soups, made from lentils—the workman’s dish—beans, and vegetables (onions, garlic, cabbage, and turnips), would have also been a regular feature in their diet.

Meat consumption was rare due to its perceived barbarism, while fresh and salted fish were more popular sources of nutrition. This trend continued in Roman and Ottoman times and changed fairly recently when technological progress made meat more readily available.

Other sources of animal protein included milk and cheese, from sheep and goats, and oxygala, an early ancestor of yogurt.

Dessert consisted of fresh or dried fruits, honey, and nuts, while wine was the basic drink of ancient Greeks. They always added water to their wine to prevent dizziness. Drinking unmixed wine was considered a barbaric habit likely to lead to madness and death. For them, wine consumption was considered helpful in liberating their thoughts and feelings and creating meaningful conversations. The ancient Greeks also sweetened their wine with honey and made therapeutic concoctions by adding thyme, pennyroyal, and other herbs.

Pythagoras: The Father Of Veganism?

The concept of veganism in Greece isn’t just a modern trend. Rooted in the ethical treatment of animals and the environment, it can be traced back to the philosophical teachings of Pythagoras in the 6th century BC and Plato in the late 5th century BC. Pythagoras, in particular, was a vocal advocate for animal rights and the benefits of a plant-based diet.

The First Fusion Cuisine & The First Cookbook In The World

In 334 B.C., Alexander the Great extended the Greek Empire’s reach from Europe to India. As a result, certain northern and eastern influences were absorbed into the Greek culinary repertoire, making it the very first example of “fusion’ cuisine.

Archestratus, a poet and philosopher from ancient Greece, is credited with writing the first cookbook in history in 320 B.C. Known as the Father of Gastronomy, Archestratus wrote a humorous didactic poem called Hedypatheia that offered advice on finding the best food in the Mediterranean and revealed secrets of ancient Greek cuisine.

Archestratus is also credited with coining the term “gastronomy,” which means “Rules (-nomy) of the Stomach (gastro).” He presented five golden rules about cooking and eating that remain valuable today, including using high-quality raw materials, combining ingredients harmoniously, avoiding hot sauces and spices, preferring lighter sauces, and using spices in moderation.

Olive Relish: An Ancient Greek Vegan Recipe!

‘How to make green, black, or mixed olive relish. Remove stones from green, black, or mixed olives, then prepare as follows: Chop them and add oil, vinegar, coriander, cumin, fennel, rue, and mint. Pot them: the oil should cover them. Ready to use.’

Cato, On Agriculture 119

The recipe from Cato dates to about 200 BC, but olives provided relish and flavouring all through ancient times. At classical Greek banquets, olives were served in brine, and sometimes, no doubt, they were served as relishes like this.

Cato’s recipe uses cumin, but it can overpower the herbs, so it is listed as optional below. Fennel leaf will not always be easy to find, so the chopped root will serve as a substitute.

Serves 4

Ingredients:

120g black olives
120g green olives
4 tbsp red wine vinegar
4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 heaped tsp chopped fennel leaf or finely diced fennel root
1/2 level tsp ground cumin (optional)
2 tsp chopped fresh coriander
2 tsp dried or chopped fresh rue (you can use a bitter herb or spice such as fenugreek seed as a substitute)
2 heaped tsp dried or 3 tsp chopped fresh mint

Method:

1. Chop the olives roughly and pour on the vinegar and olive oil.
2. Prepare the herbs, chopping them finely if fresh, and add to the mixture.
3. Place the olive relish in a sealable container and pour a little olive oil over the top. At this stage, it can be eaten, as Cato firmly says, but it does improve with a few days of marinating.
4. Try it with pitta bread.

This recipe is found in The Classical Cookbook by Andrew Dalby and Sally Grainger.

Greek Cuisine Evolution & Influences

In 146 B.C., Greece fell to the Romans, which resulted in a blending of Roman influence into Greek cooking. Roman dishes were often more elaborate, and they introduced the Greeks to ingredients such as oysters and truffles.

The Byzantine Empire, which succeeded the Roman Empire, maintained the fusion of Greek and Roman culinary traditions while also absorbing elements from the Middle East and North Africa, particularly in the use of spices. This era saw the rise of elaborate plant-based dishes that showcased the diversity of ingredients available in the region. New ingredients were added to Greek cuisine, such as caviar, nutmeg, lemons, and basil, with fish continuing to be an integral part of the diet.

Also, the rise of Eastern Orthodox Christianity emphasized the importance of fasting and abstinence from meat. This has contributed to the development of a rich repertoire of vegetarian and vegan dishes, particularly during periods such as Lent, when the consumption of animal products is restricted. Dishes like fasolada (bean soup), spanakopita (spinach pie), dolmadakia yalantzi (stuffed with rice and herbs grape leaves), and gigantes plaki (giant baked beans) became even more popular.

Even today, the easiest way to ask in Greece if a dish is vegan is to ask if it is νηστίσιμο (pronounced [neesteessimo] and means Lenten food or Lent-fasting-friendly).

One of the most significant influences on Greek cuisine comes from the Ottoman Empire, which ruled over Greece for nearly four centuries. During this time, Ottoman culinary traditions merged with Greek cooking, resulting in the incorporation of spices like cinnamon, cloves, and cumin, as well as cooking techniques such as braising and using yogurt in dishes like tzatziki. Classic Greek dishes like baklava and souvlaki bear the imprint of this cultural fusion.

The Venetian occupation of certain Greek islands also left its mark on the cuisine. Venetian traders introduced new ingredients, such as pasta, which became popular in dishes like pastitsio, a Greek take on lasagna. Additionally, the Venetians brought a penchant for seafood, leading to the prominence of dishes like seafood risotto and squid ink pasta in certain regions.

The Origin Of The Most Popular Greek Dish: Mussaka

One of the most iconic vegan staples in Greek cuisine is the humble eggplant. Its Latin/French name “aubergine” comes from the historical city of Vergina (Βεργίνα) in Greece! Discovering this new vegetable during his conquest, Alexander the Great wanted to bring it back to his country on his return. After his death, members of his army brought aubergine seeds with them to Greece and specifically to the city of Vergina (Βεργίνα) in 325 BC! The Latin/French term aubergine is coined to Franco-Catalan gastronomist Sergius Rosario Silvestri, co-traveller and close friend to Amerigo Vespucci. Upon arrival at the historical site of Vergina in 1505 AD and wanting to try the local delicacies, Silvestri came across the plant of aubergine. Not knowing its name, he referred to it as aubergine (au Bergine or au Vergine), which in French means at Vergina or found at Vergina. This purple powerhouse is nowadays used in many dishes like the famous moussaka, where it’s layered with tomatoes and herbs to create a rich, satisfying flavor profile.

Many people believe that this famous Greek dish was created in the Palatian kitchens of the Ottoman Empire, but moussaka, as we know it today, did not exist till the end of the 19th century. The dish existed before -under the same name – meaning “moistened” in Arabic and was just a dish made out of fried eggplants and tomato sauce in the Middle East. Greece’s most influential chef, Nikolaos Tselementes, in his effort to modernize Greek cuisine, married French cuisine with Greek tradition, and voilà! Three layers of goodness were created, made with sauteed eggplants, minced meat in sweet-spiced tomato, and bechamel sauce on top.

Another version of it is papoutsakia, meaning little shoes, which consist of whole eggplants stuffed with minced meat and topped with bechamel.

Veganism On The Island Of Crete Today

Throughout history, Greek cuisine has evolved and adapted, incorporating various vegan elements that reflect the region’s agricultural abundance and cultural heritage. In modern times, Greece has seen a resurgence of interest in veganism, with many young Greeks embracing a plant-based lifestyle as a way to reconnect with their cultural heritage. From vegan souvlaki to vegan moussaka, innovative chefs and food bloggers are reimagining traditional Greek dishes with a modern, plant-based twist.

In Crete, the island’s rich agricultural heritage has given rise to an extra-thriving vegan community, where local farmers and chefs are working together to create innovative, plant-based dishes that showcase the island’s unique flavors and ingredients. Crete is fast becoming a vegan paradise.

So the next time you’re in Crete, be sure to seek out some of the amazing vegan options – your taste buds (and your conscience) will thank you. Opa!


Now, you and your friends can join the most authentic Vegan Tour of Crete!


 
Thursday, 05 February 2015 15:26

Days And Nights In Psirri

There is truth to the idea that we often miss that which is right in front of us. How many times do we walk by the same shops every day, only to notice 2 years later that the one at the end of the street on the left has the one thing we’ve been looking for... I live very close to Psirri, and I enjoy going there for a bite to eat and a drink from time to time.

I feel it’s one of the defining ‘Athens centre’ districts, and has remained uniquely authentic and still somewhat off most tourist maps.  So I jumped at the invitation to join a group of friends on a photography walk of Psirri. We grabbed cameras and tripods and set out to wander the little side streets of the neighbourhood on a warm but overcast Saturday afternoon.

Past the main streets of the area, the more obvious with the little tavernas and bars, we wandered onto a series of streets and alleys that are covered in graffiti – the kind of grafitti one actually enjoys and wants to photograph. Psirri is the definition of street art. It’s grungy and shabby-chic, but also completely authentic and absolutely ‘local’.

Later, we stopped for a drink – and in wintertime Psirri one must order oinomelo or it’s stronger cousin rakomelo. This is wine or raki, sweetened with honey, and served steaming hot. A greek version of glüwein? Perhaps, but rakomelo is oh-so-Psirri.

We sat at Liosporos, one of those places I pass every time I’m in Psirri, but have never been in. I loved it. Small, cute, quaint, grungy enough to be authentic and styled enough to be comfortable. Nice vibe, good music, warm rakomelo.

Even if you think you know it well, check out Psirri – wander past the main streets, get lost, be brave – and be rewarded with one of Athens coolest neighbourhoods.

If nothing else, go for the rakomelo.

Liosporos
http://psirri.gr/liosporos/en/index.html
Miaouli 24
210 331 1841

 

Until next week,

Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

Wednesday, 18 February 2015 11:27

Mani – A Byzantine Secret

Between the districts of Lakonia and Messinia in southern Greece, Mani, the southernmost and middle peninsula of the Peloponnese, is a treasure trove of Byzantine and post Byzantine churches, Frankish castles and stunning scenery.

The isolated aspect of this beautiful area, combined with the independent nature of its inhabitants meant that some traditions developed separately from the rest of the Peloponnese and Greece so that a distinct society made its mark on the landscape. To this day the architecture of the area is famed for the tower houses and fortified family dwellings from the period of the Ottoman occupation of Greece.

Olive groves opaque with pollen, meadows carpeted with wild flowers, melting snow water gushing down mountain-sides before sinking into underground streams to reform as icy tendrils that curl about one's feet on early morning swims from empty beaches. This is springtime in the Mani. Uncluttered and pristine, it is a wild place; the people once infamous for banditry and the landscape contrasting between arid, ochreous rocks scattered with ruined tower citadels and cypress-strewn olive groves leading to the clear, blue Ionian sea.

Byzantine streets lined with castellated houses of golden stone lead to the sparkling sea. Tiny domed churches, some little bigger than beehives, pepper the hillsides, each one filled with colorful frescoes like Byzantine jewel boxes. The perilous road to the Inner Mani leads from the lush hill groves of Kardamili to a bleached splendor of rock and tower, and there are many nameless little beaches along the way.

Until recently, many Mani villages could be reached only by sea or precipitous donkey tracks. This was due in part to the topography and poverty of the area but also a strategic defense against frequent coastline attacks from invading armies, not to mention pirates. Over the centuries, homes became increasingly like fortresses and as the population grew they turned in on themselves to fatal effect.

The villages are famed for their tower houses from which rival families shot each other with cannons in vendettas that lasted generations. Shattered towers scatter the hilltops like miniature castles and the feeling of a shuttered inner-world remains in the crumbling hamlets, silent and brooding under the glare of the southern sun.

To read more, please visit ManiGuide and The Guardian

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