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Greek Cuisine Vegan Elements Throughout History
Although contemporary Greek cuisine is often associated with rich meats, seafood, and dairy products, there is a rich history of vegan elements woven throughout traditional Greek cooking since ancient times.
Let’s Start At The Beginning: The Ancient Greek Cuisine
Ancient Greek cuisine was characterized by its frugality and was largely based on the “Mediterranean triad” of cereals (mainly wheat and barley), olives, and grapes, and leaned heavily towards consuming legumes and nuts. Olive trees have been grown and harvested in Greece since at least the mid-4th millennium BC, likely earlier, and the “golden liquid” of the Greek land, e.g.olive oil, was traded across the length and breadth of the Mediterranean throughout antiquity.
Ancient Greeks had simple meals and eating habits. They started their days with plain breakfasts of bread dipped in wine called akratisma, which was sometimes complemented by figs, dates, or olives. They also ate a sort of fried pancake called tiganitis, still popular as a breakfast today after 2.500 years!
Around noon or shortly after, they would have a quick meal called ariston with bread, olive oil, cheese, and fruit, and a snack called esperisma before their most important meal of the day, dinner or deipnon which included a selection of legumes, as well as bread, cheese, olives, eggs, fruits, and nuts.
Soups, made from lentils—the workman’s dish—beans, and vegetables (onions, garlic, cabbage, and turnips), would have also been a regular feature in their diet.
Meat consumption was rare due to its perceived barbarism, while fresh and salted fish were more popular sources of nutrition. This trend continued in Roman and Ottoman times and changed fairly recently when technological progress made meat more readily available.
Other sources of animal protein included milk and cheese, from sheep and goats, and oxygala, an early ancestor of yogurt.
Dessert consisted of fresh or dried fruits, honey, and nuts, while wine was the basic drink of ancient Greeks. They always added water to their wine to prevent dizziness. Drinking unmixed wine was considered a barbaric habit likely to lead to madness and death. For them, wine consumption was considered helpful in liberating their thoughts and feelings and creating meaningful conversations. The ancient Greeks also sweetened their wine with honey and made therapeutic concoctions by adding thyme, pennyroyal, and other herbs.
Pythagoras: The Father Of Veganism?
The concept of veganism in Greece isn’t just a modern trend. Rooted in the ethical treatment of animals and the environment, it can be traced back to the philosophical teachings of Pythagoras in the 6th century BC and Plato in the late 5th century BC. Pythagoras, in particular, was a vocal advocate for animal rights and the benefits of a plant-based diet.
The First Fusion Cuisine & The First Cookbook In The World
In 334 B.C., Alexander the Great extended the Greek Empire’s reach from Europe to India. As a result, certain northern and eastern influences were absorbed into the Greek culinary repertoire, making it the very first example of “fusion’ cuisine.
Archestratus, a poet and philosopher from ancient Greece, is credited with writing the first cookbook in history in 320 B.C. Known as the Father of Gastronomy, Archestratus wrote a humorous didactic poem called Hedypatheia that offered advice on finding the best food in the Mediterranean and revealed secrets of ancient Greek cuisine.
Archestratus is also credited with coining the term “gastronomy,” which means “Rules (-nomy) of the Stomach (gastro).” He presented five golden rules about cooking and eating that remain valuable today, including using high-quality raw materials, combining ingredients harmoniously, avoiding hot sauces and spices, preferring lighter sauces, and using spices in moderation.
Olive Relish: An Ancient Greek Vegan Recipe!
‘How to make green, black, or mixed olive relish. Remove stones from green, black, or mixed olives, then prepare as follows: Chop them and add oil, vinegar, coriander, cumin, fennel, rue, and mint. Pot them: the oil should cover them. Ready to use.’
Cato, On Agriculture 119
The recipe from Cato dates to about 200 BC, but olives provided relish and flavouring all through ancient times. At classical Greek banquets, olives were served in brine, and sometimes, no doubt, they were served as relishes like this.
Cato’s recipe uses cumin, but it can overpower the herbs, so it is listed as optional below. Fennel leaf will not always be easy to find, so the chopped root will serve as a substitute.
Serves 4
Ingredients:
120g black olives
120g green olives
4 tbsp red wine vinegar
4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 heaped tsp chopped fennel leaf or finely diced fennel root
1/2 level tsp ground cumin (optional)
2 tsp chopped fresh coriander
2 tsp dried or chopped fresh rue (you can use a bitter herb or spice such as fenugreek seed as a substitute)
2 heaped tsp dried or 3 tsp chopped fresh mint
Method:
1. Chop the olives roughly and pour on the vinegar and olive oil.
2. Prepare the herbs, chopping them finely if fresh, and add to the mixture.
3. Place the olive relish in a sealable container and pour a little olive oil over the top. At this stage, it can be eaten, as Cato firmly says, but it does improve with a few days of marinating.
4. Try it with pitta bread.
This recipe is found in The Classical Cookbook by Andrew Dalby and Sally Grainger.
Greek Cuisine Evolution & Influences
In 146 B.C., Greece fell to the Romans, which resulted in a blending of Roman influence into Greek cooking. Roman dishes were often more elaborate, and they introduced the Greeks to ingredients such as oysters and truffles.
The Byzantine Empire, which succeeded the Roman Empire, maintained the fusion of Greek and Roman culinary traditions while also absorbing elements from the Middle East and North Africa, particularly in the use of spices. This era saw the rise of elaborate plant-based dishes that showcased the diversity of ingredients available in the region. New ingredients were added to Greek cuisine, such as caviar, nutmeg, lemons, and basil, with fish continuing to be an integral part of the diet.
Also, the rise of Eastern Orthodox Christianity emphasized the importance of fasting and abstinence from meat. This has contributed to the development of a rich repertoire of vegetarian and vegan dishes, particularly during periods such as Lent, when the consumption of animal products is restricted. Dishes like fasolada (bean soup), spanakopita (spinach pie), dolmadakia yalantzi (stuffed with rice and herbs grape leaves), and gigantes plaki (giant baked beans) became even more popular.
Even today, the easiest way to ask in Greece if a dish is vegan is to ask if it is νηστίσιμο (pronounced [neesteessimo] and means Lenten food or Lent-fasting-friendly).
One of the most significant influences on Greek cuisine comes from the Ottoman Empire, which ruled over Greece for nearly four centuries. During this time, Ottoman culinary traditions merged with Greek cooking, resulting in the incorporation of spices like cinnamon, cloves, and cumin, as well as cooking techniques such as braising and using yogurt in dishes like tzatziki. Classic Greek dishes like baklava and souvlaki bear the imprint of this cultural fusion.
The Venetian occupation of certain Greek islands also left its mark on the cuisine. Venetian traders introduced new ingredients, such as pasta, which became popular in dishes like pastitsio, a Greek take on lasagna. Additionally, the Venetians brought a penchant for seafood, leading to the prominence of dishes like seafood risotto and squid ink pasta in certain regions.
The Origin Of The Most Popular Greek Dish: Mussaka
One of the most iconic vegan staples in Greek cuisine is the humble eggplant. Its Latin/French name “aubergine” comes from the historical city of Vergina (Βεργίνα) in Greece! Discovering this new vegetable during his conquest, Alexander the Great wanted to bring it back to his country on his return. After his death, members of his army brought aubergine seeds with them to Greece and specifically to the city of Vergina (Βεργίνα) in 325 BC! The Latin/French term aubergine is coined to Franco-Catalan gastronomist Sergius Rosario Silvestri, co-traveller and close friend to Amerigo Vespucci. Upon arrival at the historical site of Vergina in 1505 AD and wanting to try the local delicacies, Silvestri came across the plant of aubergine. Not knowing its name, he referred to it as aubergine (au Bergine or au Vergine), which in French means at Vergina or found at Vergina. This purple powerhouse is nowadays used in many dishes like the famous moussaka, where it’s layered with tomatoes and herbs to create a rich, satisfying flavor profile.
Many people believe that this famous Greek dish was created in the Palatian kitchens of the Ottoman Empire, but moussaka, as we know it today, did not exist till the end of the 19th century. The dish existed before -under the same name – meaning “moistened” in Arabic and was just a dish made out of fried eggplants and tomato sauce in the Middle East. Greece’s most influential chef, Nikolaos Tselementes, in his effort to modernize Greek cuisine, married French cuisine with Greek tradition, and voilà! Three layers of goodness were created, made with sauteed eggplants, minced meat in sweet-spiced tomato, and bechamel sauce on top.
Another version of it is papoutsakia, meaning little shoes, which consist of whole eggplants stuffed with minced meat and topped with bechamel.
Veganism On The Island Of Crete Today
Throughout history, Greek cuisine has evolved and adapted, incorporating various vegan elements that reflect the region’s agricultural abundance and cultural heritage. In modern times, Greece has seen a resurgence of interest in veganism, with many young Greeks embracing a plant-based lifestyle as a way to reconnect with their cultural heritage. From vegan souvlaki to vegan moussaka, innovative chefs and food bloggers are reimagining traditional Greek dishes with a modern, plant-based twist.
In Crete, the island’s rich agricultural heritage has given rise to an extra-thriving vegan community, where local farmers and chefs are working together to create innovative, plant-based dishes that showcase the island’s unique flavors and ingredients. Crete is fast becoming a vegan paradise.
So the next time you’re in Crete, be sure to seek out some of the amazing vegan options – your taste buds (and your conscience) will thank you. Opa!
Days And Nights In Psirri
There is truth to the idea that we often miss that which is right in front of us. How many times do we walk by the same shops every day, only to notice 2 years later that the one at the end of the street on the left has the one thing we’ve been looking for... I live very close to Psirri, and I enjoy going there for a bite to eat and a drink from time to time.
I feel it’s one of the defining ‘Athens centre’ districts, and has remained uniquely authentic and still somewhat off most tourist maps. So I jumped at the invitation to join a group of friends on a photography walk of Psirri. We grabbed cameras and tripods and set out to wander the little side streets of the neighbourhood on a warm but overcast Saturday afternoon.
Past the main streets of the area, the more obvious with the little tavernas and bars, we wandered onto a series of streets and alleys that are covered in graffiti – the kind of grafitti one actually enjoys and wants to photograph. Psirri is the definition of street art. It’s grungy and shabby-chic, but also completely authentic and absolutely ‘local’.
Later, we stopped for a drink – and in wintertime Psirri one must order oinomelo or it’s stronger cousin rakomelo. This is wine or raki, sweetened with honey, and served steaming hot. A greek version of glüwein? Perhaps, but rakomelo is oh-so-Psirri.
We sat at Liosporos, one of those places I pass every time I’m in Psirri, but have never been in. I loved it. Small, cute, quaint, grungy enough to be authentic and styled enough to be comfortable. Nice vibe, good music, warm rakomelo.
Even if you think you know it well, check out Psirri – wander past the main streets, get lost, be brave – and be rewarded with one of Athens coolest neighbourhoods.
If nothing else, go for the rakomelo.
Liosporos
http://psirri.gr/liosporos/en/index.html
Miaouli 24
210 331 1841
Until next week,
Jack
In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…
Mani – A Byzantine Secret
Between the districts of Lakonia and Messinia in southern Greece, Mani, the southernmost and middle peninsula of the Peloponnese, is a treasure trove of Byzantine and post Byzantine churches, Frankish castles and stunning scenery.
The isolated aspect of this beautiful area, combined with the independent nature of its inhabitants meant that some traditions developed separately from the rest of the Peloponnese and Greece so that a distinct society made its mark on the landscape. To this day the architecture of the area is famed for the tower houses and fortified family dwellings from the period of the Ottoman occupation of Greece.
Olive groves opaque with pollen, meadows carpeted with wild flowers, melting snow water gushing down mountain-sides before sinking into underground streams to reform as icy tendrils that curl about one's feet on early morning swims from empty beaches. This is springtime in the Mani. Uncluttered and pristine, it is a wild place; the people once infamous for banditry and the landscape contrasting between arid, ochreous rocks scattered with ruined tower citadels and cypress-strewn olive groves leading to the clear, blue Ionian sea.
Byzantine streets lined with castellated houses of golden stone lead to the sparkling sea. Tiny domed churches, some little bigger than beehives, pepper the hillsides, each one filled with colorful frescoes like Byzantine jewel boxes. The perilous road to the Inner Mani leads from the lush hill groves of Kardamili to a bleached splendor of rock and tower, and there are many nameless little beaches along the way.
Until recently, many Mani villages could be reached only by sea or precipitous donkey tracks. This was due in part to the topography and poverty of the area but also a strategic defense against frequent coastline attacks from invading armies, not to mention pirates. Over the centuries, homes became increasingly like fortresses and as the population grew they turned in on themselves to fatal effect.
The villages are famed for their tower houses from which rival families shot each other with cannons in vendettas that lasted generations. Shattered towers scatter the hilltops like miniature castles and the feeling of a shuttered inner-world remains in the crumbling hamlets, silent and brooding under the glare of the southern sun.
To read more, please visit ManiGuide and The Guardian
Weddings In Greece 2015
The history, weather, and picturesque landscapes of Greece and its islands make it a hugely attractive destination for couples looking to add a little extra magic to their special day, making it one of the most popular countries in Europe for overseas weddings in recent years.
Perhaps one of the greatest virtues of Greece as a wedding destination is that its variety of landscapes permits the couple to really be in control of the aesthetics and tone of their wedding.
With that in mind, we’ve put together some of the most popular Greek wedding destinations and themes to inspire you.
Destinations
Santorini
Santorini is one of the most beautiful islands in the Mediterranean and is justifiably one of the most popular wedding destinations in Greece. The island features the famous blue and white villas and churches, excellent beaches, and fantastic views stretching out over the blue water. The laid back and clean aesthetic of the island lends itself to small and personal weddings, though that’s not to say there isn’t plenty of scope to invite hundreds of your friends and turn it into a big wedding – there is. Whichever one you decide on, it’s hard to go wrong in an area as beautiful as this.
Kefalonia
The island of Kefalonia may only be 50km long and 25km wide, but it manages to pack a lot of romantic views into its small space. With beautiful beaches, stunning water, and an untouched atmosphere that is seldom replicated elsewhere, the island is the ideal place for a small beach ceremony with an intimate audience of family and friends.
Themes
Cruise Weddings
A great way to have a Greek wedding and begin your honeymoon is by taking a cruise wedding, in which you get to share the build-up to the ceremony, the ceremony, and week-long after party with your friends and family. A cruise wedding isn’t a Vegas wedding, however – you’ll still enjoy as much control over the day as you would if it were taking place on land. With so many beautiful Greek islands worth visiting, a cruise wedding is a great way to see them all and make your wedding especially unforgettable – it is also convenient for those couples who can’t decide which picturesque landscape they want in the background of their wedding photos.
Greek Group Weddings
With overseas weddings growing in popularity each year, couples are thinking of ever more creative ways to keep the costs down and turn their dream wedding into a reality. One of the most fun ways to do this is to double, triple, or even quadruple or more up with other engaged couples and have a group wedding, thus slashing costs. Sixteen couples recently wed in one massive ceremony on the island of Crete, taking the idea of “My Big Fat Greek Wedding” to a whole new level! While it’s unlikely to save you big money on flights or accommodation, you can save on rentals, food packages, and just about everything else connected to a wedding (though feel free to splurge on your own dress!).
Greek Style
Most people who get married in Greece do so because of the beauty of the landscape, but those who delve a little deeper will find that adding a healthy dose of Greek culture to the ceremony adds plenty of potential to make it unique, stylish, and memorable. The beauty of this approach is that it is so simple – just think about Greek culture while planning! This means adding plenty of fish and local fruit in your meals, serving Greek olives, and making sure all the wine comes from within the country. You can even find plenty of wedding dresses inspired by Ancient Greece and include local music, dances, and customs into your ceremony and after party. If you really want to be Greek, follow the age-old custom and turn your wedding into a three day celebration – it’ll be worth it!
Final Advice
The hospitality and beauty of Greece makes it an unforgettable wedding location. And the beauty of a Greek wedding is that there are no rules to follow – you can have an intimate or extravagant ceremony, choose a romantic island or the bustling city of Athens; the choice is yours. Whichever you decide, take the time to really think about what your perfect wedding would look like – because in Greece, it’s probably achievable.
By Jemma Bond
Photo: iefimerida.gr
A Guide to Greek Drinks and Drinking
There is no legal age in Greece and some suggest this is why most children learn to drink moderately. Clubs and retail stores sell alcoholic drinks to those overf 16 and lately driving laws and regulations have become stricter to avoid alcohol-related car accidents.
Tsipouro
Tsipouro is a Greek traditional distillation product from the pomace of grapes (the residue of the wine press) particularly brewed in Thessaly (Tsipouro Tyrnavou,) Epirus, Macedonia, Mani Peninsula and the island of Crete, where Cretans call it tsikoudia. Tsipouro is a strong distilled spirit containing approximately 45 percent alcohol. Other areas of Greece use the name raki.
According to tradition, the first production of tsipouro was the work of Greek Orthodox monks. This occurred during the 14th Century on Mount Athos in Macedonia. The idea of using the pomace left over from the wine-making process produce a distilled spirit was passed to viticulturists in poorer regions across the country.
Depending on the time of year, tsipouro is used either as refreshment or as a hot beverage, and depending on the time of day, it replaces for many the drinking of coffee or wine. It is usually served in shot glasses, with ice, often with delicious meze including feta, ham, olives, tomatoes, halva or other desserts in restaurants.
Ouzo
This anise-flavored aperitif is a symbol of Greek culture and has many scores of thousands of enthusiasts in Greece and Cyprus. Deriving from the anise flavored version of tsipouro, modern ouzo distillation largely took off in the beginning of the 19th Century following the Greek independence fight, with production blooming mainly on the island of Lesbos, which claims to be the originator of the drink and remains a major producer. In the early 20th Century when absinthe was gradually abandoned, ouzo rose as the new substitute.
In 1932, ouzo producers developed a method of distillation using copper stills that is now the standard method of production. One of the largest producers of ouzo today is Varvayiannis, located in the town of Plomari in the southeast portion of Lesbos, while in the same town Pitsiladi, a variety of high quality ouzo is also distilled.
Ouzo is traditionally mixed with water, becoming cloudy white, and served with ice cubes in a small glass. Ouzo can also be drunk straight from a shot glass. Served with a small plate of a variety of appetizers called mezes, usually small fresh fish, fries, olives and feta cheese, ouzo has a smooth yet distinctly sweetened taste that can bring light-headedness in only a few shots.
Ouzito
Ouzito, as you may have imagined is a coctail with ouzo. The Greek answer to mojito – as many call it- is a mix of mint, lemon, soda water, sugar and ouzo. Making the coctail you can also use Coke instead of soda water in case you want it to be more sweet and have a less liquerish taste. Ouzito is moreof an after food drink, rather than a drink to accompany your food.
Retsina
Retsina has been something like the national beverage for Greeks since the 1960′s. Produced from Greek white (or rosé) resinated wine, the beverage has been made for at least 2000 years. Its unique flavor is said to have originated from the practice of sealing wine vessels, particularly amphorae, with Aleppo Pine resin in ancient times.
Popular legend has it that the evolution of retsina stems from the Roman conquest of Greece. Stories claim that the Romans plundered the wines of Greece, angering the citizens who turned to pine resin as a way of extending their store of wine and as a deterrent to their thirsty conquerors. The harsh flavor was said to put off the Romans, who refused to drink the bitter ferment.
In Greece, local retsina is produced throughout the country with widely popular brands being Malamatina, Tsantali, Kourtaki and Georgiadis. Major production centers around Attica, Boeotia and Euboea. Retsina should be served extremely cold, and in wide, open glasses along with delicious savory, spicy meze.
Wine
Greece is one of the oldest wine-producing regions in the world dating back some 6,500 years. In ancient Greece, wine was produced in households or communities and soon became a main product of trading between the Mediterranean people. The geographical anatomy of the country and its climate serve the brewing of some 300 elegant indigenous wine varieties in the best possible way, such as in Assyrtiko (Santorini island,) Aghiorgitiko (Peloponnese,) Malagousia (Macedonia,.) Robola (Kephalonia,) Mavrodaphne (Peloponnese and Ionian islands,) Amorgiano (Rhodes and Crete) and many others.
The vast quantity and flavors of Greek wines make it imperative for everyone to taste a glass of God Dionysus’ liquor with their food. When in a restaurant remember to share your wine from the karafe or bottle because that’s common when eating with Greeks.
To read more, please visit greekreporter.com
By Stella Tsolakidou
Traditional Greek Salad - Choriatiki
Difficulty: Easy
Ingredients
-
4 large tomatoes
- 1 medium onion, cut into medium chunks
- 1 medium cucumber peeled and cut into medium chunks
- 1 green bell pepper, cut into medium chunks
- 1 slice Greek feta cheese
- Pinch of dried Greek oregano
- 1/4 cup top quality extra virgin olive oil
- 12 Kalamata olive
- Squirt of lemon and sea salt to taste
To view this recipe in full, please visit: Lemon & Olives
Urban Gastronomy In Athens
I love tavernas as much as the next guy, but I also love to be surprised by unexpected flavours and interesting spaces, by those little restaurants around little corners of the city that catch your eye as you walk past. Or that you hear about on Facebook ;). In the past couple weeks, I’ve splurged and tried two of the newer food spots around town.
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