Speaking of yings and yangs, I was on the metro yesterday evening – the Elektriko green line – traveling from Monastiraki to Marousi. Now, I realize that public transportation in most cities can tend to attract all kinds of interesting characters – but somehow yesterday’s rush hour on the green line had the full range of strange.

At one point, there were 3 clearly strung out characters asking for money – competitors! - with one of them named Yianni wailing about his mother in the hospital, who needed surgery and could we give him some money to help pay for it. (The bottle of booze sticking out of his back pocket notwithstanding…) The packed train more or less completely ignored them, except when one of the men in fact asked for food for his children. An older woman passenger reached into her shopping bag and gave him an entire loaf of bread. He thanked her and moved on.

This continued for a few stops, with people generally uncomfortable – the heat, the crowded train, the in-your-face desperation – all triggers for feelings of frustration, disappointment, guilt.

And then two 20-something girls got on the train, both with backpacks, shorts, and that particular tone of chatter and giggling that can be heard for miles.

Apparently they were drama students, since one of them began to recite her lines from a play or poem (don’t ask me which one – I couldn’t tell you…). Her voice carried across half the car, and people perked up, listening to her. This continued for at least 2 stops, and when she realized she had a large audience, she feigned embarrassment and apologized to the crowd. “Don't stop!”, was the answer from an old man standing nearby. So she continued. When she finished a few minutes later, half the train was clapping, and the other half was smiling (including me), and the girls got off still giggling, “Remember us we’ll be famous!”…

So yes, ying & yang (and the odd Yianni) is business as usual in Athens, especially it seems in the deepest darkest winter of September ;)

Until next week,

Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

On the north is Aoos river and the imposing mount Tymfi with its famous Gamilla peak (meaning Camel) and the stunning Lake Drakolimni up there!

The south-Eastern Side runs along the Varda River to Mount Mavrovouni (2,100 m) near Metsovo. It has striking geology and two national parks, one including the river Aoos and the Vikos Gorge, the other around Valia Kalda to the east. That was a brief geographical update but it is about time for me to become highly subjective and describe my trip during Easter time 2011 in the West and Central Zagori. So I took off from Athens with my boyfriend (he was driving thankfully!) and after about 5 hours we arrived in Ioannina which is the largest city in Epirus, famous for its beautiful lake, pies and desserts. We stayed in Grand Serai which is a very beautiful hotel that used to be a Xenia (meaning a state owned hotel) but thankfully it was recently renovated by its new owner Kostas Mitsis. The owner was born in Ioannina and moved at a very early age to Athens to find a job. He now owns about 20 hotels all around Greece. But his love has always been his hometown and his dream to create something there.

Waking up in Ioannina was a peaceful feeling; we had a nice view of the lake from our bedroom and the weather was sunny!! We decided to leave the room and go out for – what else- a pie! So we went to this small place called Select in the city’s centre, on Averof Street which is across the Officers’ Club. The place is exactly the same since the day it opened in the early ‘70s. You don’t go there to relax and enjoy the ambience; you just go there to eat! It is very famous for the baklava dessert. We didn’t have it though, since baklava has a very sweet and syrupy taste to start the day with, it is best enjoyed in the afternoon. We had bougatsa (a type of pie) with cheese and bougatsa with cream, both delicious and enough to keep us full until our final destination Mikro Papigo (meaning Small Papigo) in the West Zagori. We stayed in “Mikro Papigo 1700” which holds its name because of the restored house and 1st building of the complex which dates back to 1700. The owners of the place are very warm people who originate from the area, then moved to Athens and came back to their homeland a few years ago. They really made a big investment in the area but kept everything to its right proportion and with great taste. We just loved the wife’s cooking so most of the evenings we stayed in for dinner. She prepared delicious meat dishes.

I think it was on the 2nd day we decided to take a walk along the Voidomatis River, we were equipped with the right shoes holding the ankle tight so as not to twist on the rocky parts of the path. The walk was actually quite long, 2 hours to go to the traditional arched stone bridge of Kleidonia and another 2 to go back to Aristi where we started. But it was definitely worth every minute of it, we put our feet in the river to rest, we even drank water directly from it (not while having our feet in there!). In the afternoon we decided to go visit the village of Aristi where we checked out another hotel as well, the “Aristi Mountain Resort”, also very beautiful with indoor swimming pool and massage services available. I should not forget to mention that last time I was in Papigo I stayed in Megalo Papigo (Big Papigo) in “Avragonio” hotel owned by Petros and Marouska, also great. Marouska used to make a delicious cake for breakfast. It was voted by Conde Nast Traveller as the best guesthouse complex in Greece in 2010 by the readers.

It was the 4th day we decided to walk again, this time on a more challenging path. We went to the Vikos gorge and reached the Voidomatis springs! The way down is rocky and abrupt and the way up is still rocky and abrupt and uphill as well, so anyone planning to do that should think twice before going down! I must say for myself I am not used to such walks but I did find it challenging and fun after all. A friend of ours suggested we drive to the Central Zagori as well to bring her marmalade from the village of Kapesovo. We passed by Monodendri first, where the path of the Vikos Gorge leading to the Voidomatis river springs begins from. Then we went to Kapesovo to this picturesque little store with traditional products called “Sterna” meaning Cistern, because of the old cistern (13 m. deep, dating back to 1848) that is in the middle of the store, to try these great marmalades for ourselves! There we met Ellie Papagerorgiou, the daughter of the owner Thoukididis who showed us around. Ellie makes all the marmalades herself. My favorite is strawberry and if you like lemon you will love the one she makes. She is a very pretty, modern girl with many dogs and a passion for everything she makes. Her family also owns a beautiful guesthouse named “Thoukididis” after the father. It has only 5 rooms, decorated in Zagorian style, a bit romantic as well due to the 2 daughters and mother that work there as well. In the morning the guests can take part in the different activities of the family, such as collecting wild mushrooms, or distilling tsipouro or hiking.

After this visit the sun was setting, but we wanted to see more and especially this newly built small guesthouse I had read about in a magazine. The place is called “Kipi Suites” and is in Kipi area, on the slopes of Mount Mitsikelli. Maria Klimi, used to run the place, I don’t know if she is still there. Maria is the most hospitable person I met in my visit in the area! She offered us tea, cheese pie; she even gave us Easter eggs she hand painted to take with us. Everything Maria made was with great taste and love. The place is AMAZING. 8 different suites all with fireplaces, comfy sofas, big beds and contemporary design are there for the guests to enjoy. Last, don’t forget to buy lots of mountain tea or any kind of tea. The locals collect it from the mountain slopes and the aromas of the tea are unique as well as the benefits. We got our tea supply for a whole year from this small store in the town of Vikos a retired school teacher has who collects the tea himself with his wife. He also has this amazing honey, he calls the “merenda of the bees”, a combination of honey and hazelnuts you can’t resist!

Author: Faye Leoussis

World Travel and Tourism Council (WTTC) data seen by Kathimerini compare tourism arrival figures in 80 countries around the world this year up to June or July. They show Greece as having the second-highest growth rate in Europe, behind Latvia’s 18.9 percent.

In the first half of the year Greece put the average growth rate in Europe (4.5 percent) to shame, and with the incorporation of data from the second half – traditionally the strongest for the country – it’s set to rise further in the charts.

To read more, please visit ekathimerini.com

By Stathis Kousounis

Everybody has been in Plaka, and everybody has their views – it’s beautiful; it’s touristic; the heart of Athens; the worst tavernas in Athens. I might agree with some or all of these views (and there are plenty more!), but I still love to spend an afternoon wandering, or sitting at a little table and watching the world go by… I like to imagine that Athenians have been doing exactly that – maybe even right where I was sitting – for countless centuries before…  Someone once told me I’m just a ‘romantic xeno’! Perhaps.

My own favourite part of Plaka is the stairway of Mnisikleous Street. This is a magical place, crammed full of little chairs and tables, flowers overhanging all the way up, with the great energy of chattering voices. If you’re not sure which stairway I mean: it’s the one where the tourists stop to snap a photo as they walk by.

My favourite café on this little street is ‘Yasemi’. It’s the first one on the left as you go up the stairs. I’ve gotten to know the staff over the times I’ve been there, so it feels a little bit like hanging out at a friend’s place…

The other night, with visitors in tow, we walked by again and the whole scene was positively buzzing. I stopped to say hello to my ‘friends’ at Yasemi, and they told me that I must sit and eat at the little place on the opposite side of the stairs – ‘Apollonia Lyra’. This is parallel to the stairway, sort of the ‘back door’ of Yasemi. She told me ‘just trust me’. So I did. 

As it turns out, we had what my friends called ‘the best Greek night ever’. Imagine a narrow alley with tables and chairs, surrounded by the painted walls of old homes, live (good) Greek music, food that was surprisingly better than a ‘Plaka taverna’, and a price that wasn’t so bad…  The whole thing could have been a total kitschy disaster; instead, it was magical.

Some call Plaka authentic, some call it touristic. In a city like Athens, I’m not sure where that line gets drawn. For me, Mnisikleous Street is as authentic as it gets. Yes, tourists find their way here – but each time that I’ve been there, it is a decidedly Greek clientele sipping their freddo cappuccinos or their wine.

I often wander into Plaka, even on my own, especially early in the morning when I have the chance. Tourist shops aside, there is an undeniable magic in the air there – these centuries-old streets where, I imagine, not much has changed.  The stairways, the alleys, the homes, the narrow streets; this is the Athens I imagined before moving here, and it has remained one of the parts of Athens that I love most.

Until next week,

Jack

Yiasemi Café
Mnisikleous 23, Plaka
www.yiasemi.gr

Apollonia Lyra
Lysiou 12, Plaka
www.facebook.com/apollonia.lyra

 

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…