This past weekend was no exception, and even more than usual given the number of tourists in the city. The historic centre was literally packed with people, out for a stroll, a bite to eat, a drink – all under the serene glare of the August moon. I took a group of visiting friends out for a stroll, and ended up perched on a rock at the Areopagus hill, taking in the incredible view. There really is a strange and wonderful energy when so many people are out at night, taking in a scene that has been repeated over millennia.

Later on, giving in to requests of ‘let’s go dancing!’, we drove down the coast to Akrotiri Boutique, a staple Athenian sea-side club/restaurant.  It’s one of those beach-side, open air places, with banquettes and tables, all outdoor, light show, dance music and great vibes.  Although it’s been around for years, it still survives and continues to put on a great party. We asked for a table, which implies buying a bottle of alcohol. At €90 for a bottle of vodka, shared among 5 people, the price was more than acceptable.

We arrived at 11:00pm, quite early by Greek standards, to find the club almost empty. We wondered whether we had hit an ‘off night’. Nonetheless, within an hour or so, the place was absolutely jumping with people of all ages. There were plenty of expats around too, including a 20-something girl from Boston who had only arrived in Athens that same afternoon, and was already wondering how she would adjust to life back home (“…join the club, my dear…”)

The fireworks at 1:00am were a nice touch – my tourist friends were quite pleased.  And dancing outside until the wee hours was just what the doctor ordered…

August in Athens  - you may wish you were on an island somewhere, but let’s face it, it’s still a good time.

Until next week,

Jack

Akrotiri Boutique

www.akrotirilounge.gr

Agios Kosmas (Alimos)

+30 210 985 9147/9

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

Founded by the Byzantines in the sixth century, it shortly after became an important port.

Today a causeway links the mainland town of Yefira/New Monemvasia to Monemvasia or Kastro (castle). The Kastro is divided into a lower and an upper town. Many ruins of the original 800 houses and only four out of the original forty churches can be found in the lower town. Among them is the Church of the Elkomenos Christ (Christ Dragged), which is named after a famous icon of Christ given in 1700 to the church by Andreas Likinios, philosopher and chief physician to the ruler of Moldavia, Dimitirs Kandimir. The oldest church is St. Paul’s, which was built in 956, and today houses the museum. Further on, towards the eastern edge of the lower town and closer to the sea is the whitewashed Our Lady of Hrisafittisa, which was built in the sixteenth century.

High above, castle walls protect the upper town on the summit. There one can see the remains of Byzantine houses and public buildings and a vast cistern that ensured a water supply at times of siege. A fortified zigzag path from the upper town leads to the Fortress of Goulas on the summit overlooking the town. It is entered by a tunnel that still retains its ironbound gates. Among the ruins of houses and cisterns of the acropolis of the upper town stands St. Sophia, a Byzantine church founded by Andronikos II Paleologos on a plan similar to that of Daphni in Athens.

What to see/do - Monemvasia

After breakfast, walk up to the church on the edge of the cliff atop Monemvasia castle and try your hand at throwing a small iron or steel metal object to the sea (it will be drawn in towards the side of the hill, never reaching the sea, due to a magnetic field emanating from the rocks below.

Beaches:

To the north and south of Monemvasia there are beaches 2-3 kilometres from the causeway at Gefyra. Some well liked beaches slightly further away are at Plytra (20 km) and the stretch from Viglafia to Neapoli (35 kilomtres) both of which on on the west side of the peninsula, across from Monemvasia. The island of Elafonisi has some of the more scenic beaches.

Archaeology:

The Richia Museum of Folklore: Richia, about 25 km from Monemvasia in a building of 1875, which was the first school in the village. With farm tools, spinning wheels, clothing and woven items. Monastery of the Annunciation of the Virgin and Agios Georgios of Gerakas near Gerakas village, founded in 19th century.

There are many caves within easy reach:
Kastania - at Kastania Voion (south of Monemvasia before you reach Neapolis).
Vri Cave is north of Monemvasia with a precipice which you can climb down. You can find the entrance on the south west side and there is a lake below with crystal clear water.

How to get there

By car or bus:
Most of the time, like most people, you will drive from another part of the Peloponnese or from Athens or Sparta, but in the summer there are sea routes and sailings, cruises and tours which head for Monemvasia.

By KTEL (long-distance) buses, from Athens and most cities in the Peloponnese.

From Athens to Monemvasia by bus:
There are 3 direct buses at 06:00, 10:00 & 17:15, from the KTEL Lakonias (Bus terminal at Leoforos Kifissou 100, tel. 210-5246805) - journey takes about 4.5 hours. There are more buses via Sparta or Molai.
Tip: From Athens Airport you can take the Express bus line "X93" to the KTEL terminal on Kifissou (line runs 24hrs, with buses every 20-30 minutes).
From Monemvasia to Athens by bus:
One direct bus at 05:15. And with bus change at either Sparta or Molai at 07:15, 14:15, 17:15.

By plane:
Kalamata airport (code: KLX) is about 130 kilometres from Monemvasia - with many choices of which route to take - scenic and mountainous or scenic and even more mountainous! Allow 2.5 hours and more as you will want to enjoy this trip.
Athens airport (code: ATH) to Monemvasia: about 285 km (4.5 to 5 hours).

By sea:
Githio in the south, Patra in the northwest and Piraeus (Athens) are main ports of arrival for a trip to Peloponnese and Monemvasia, between April/May and September ferries to and from the few islands surrounding this region can be most helpful if you are visiting several places.

Source: Monemvasia.com

It is called Lake Vouliagmeni and it is a mineral spa that is reported to have many healing properties for such ailments as eczema and dermatological diseases, neuralgia, headaches, disfiguring arthritis, chronic gynecological diseases, lumbago, sciatica and other problems.

The lake is about 50 centimeters above sea level and so it is constantly overflowing and being replenished by the hot springs beneath it. The composition of the lake is brackish and full of such minerals as potassium, natrium, lithium, ammonium, calcium, ferrum, chloride, iodine and is slightly radioactive (the good kind, I guess). These minerals are known for giving relief to bone and muscle problems as well as those listed above. The lake is recognized as a wonder of nature because of its unique appearance and the surroundings. Scientific research and studies have discovered that millions of years ago, where the lake is now, there was once a large cave with a large number of hot springs. Eventually the high temperature and moisture of these springs caused the roof to collapse.

The lake is surrounded by beach chairs and umbrellas and there is a cafe-bar-restaurant too. The lake is excellent for swimming for therapy as well as for pleasure and there is equipment for helping those who find it difficult or impossible to get into the water on their own. During the summer Lake Vouliagmeni offers hotspring baths, hydrotherapy and physiotherapy. English is spoken as are a number of other languages. Children are welcome.

Copied by permission from Matt Barrett's Greece Travel Guide at www.athensguide.com