XPAT ATHENS
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This custard pie is my absolute favorite Greek dessert. If you can get past the tongue twister name, Galaktoboureko (gah-lahk-toh-BOO-reh-koh) can easily become your favorite Greek pastry as well. It’s a divine combination of creamy custard and flaky phyllo dough that is baked to golden perfection then drenched with a lemon and orange infused syrup.

The only caveat is that this dessert is best served the same day it is made. Once refrigerated, the custard tends to harden and loses its lovely texture.

Ingredients

For the filling:

• 6 cups milk
• 1-1/4 cup fine flour
• 6 egg yolks
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1 tbsp. vanilla extract
• 2 tbsp. unsalted butter

For the syrup:

• 1 cup sugar
• 1 cup water
• 5 cm piece of lemon rind
• 5 cm piece of orange rind
• Juice of 1/2 a lemon
• ½ kilo phyllo pastry sheets
• ½ kilo unsalted butter, melted (for brushing)

Preparation:

Make the Filling: In a large saucepan, heat the milk over medium high heat until just boiling. Add the flour and stir with a whisk. Lower the heat to medium low.
Using a whisk, beat the egg yolks with the sugar. Ladle a cup of the warmed milk into the egg mixture to temper and then add the egg yolk mixture to the pot.
Continue to cook over medium low heat until the cream starts to thicken, stirring continuously.

When the custard has thickened, remove from heat and stir in the vanilla extract and the butter. Set aside.

Unwrap the Phyllo: Carefully remove the Phyllo roll from the plastic sleeve. Using a pair of scissors or sharp knife, cut the sheets in half to make two stacks. To prevent drying, cover one stack with wax paper and a damp paper towel while working with the other.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Assemble the Galaktoboureko: Using a pastry brush, brush the bottom and sides of a rectangular pan. You will use approximately half the phyllo sheets for the bottom of the pastry. Begin by layering sheets one by one in the bottom of the pan, making sure to brush each one thoroughly with melted butter.

When you have almost layered half the sheets, drape two sheets of phyllo so that they extend half in the pan and half out of the pan horizontally. Add the custard in an even layer on top of the sheets, smoothing the surface with a spatula. Fold the phyllo sheet flaps in over the custard layer. Add the remaining sheets on top, brushing each sheet with melted butter.

Before baking, score the top layer of phyllo (making sure not to puncture the filling layer) to enable easier cutting of pieces later. I place the pan in the freezer for about 10 to 15 minutes to harden the top layers and then use a serrated knife.

Bake in a preheated oven for 45 minutes or until the phyllo turns a deep golden color.

While the Galaktoboureko is baking, prepare the syrup: Combine the sugar and water in a saucepan and add the lemon peel and orange peel. Boil over medium high heat for approximately 10 – 15 minutes. Remove the lemon and orange peel and stir in the lemon juice. Remove from heat and set aside to cool.

Prep Time: 45 minutes, Cook Time: 45 minutes

Total Time: 1 hour, 30 minutes, Yield: Approximately 24 pieces

Caution: Do not pour hot syrup over the hot custard. Allow both to cool to room temperature and then carefully ladle the syrup over the galaktoboureko and allow time for it to be absorbed.

To read more, please visit greekfoodabout.com

So I have done A LOT of travelling in the past 3 years (visiting over 30 countries around the world), and Greece was one of my favorite places I visited. (And Greek rice stuffed peppers were a favorite I found) Greece was pretty incredible and unexpected as I had never seen anything other than photos of ancient ruins or the white and blue houses of Mykonos on postcards. I went on a 2 1/2 week journey back in August and September of 2010 and visited many different places in Greece.

I saw the ruins of Athens, the rocky shorelines and picturesque houses of Mykonos, the rolling hills and mountains of Naxos, The Palace of the Grand Masters of Knights in Rhodes, the mesmerizing Balos Lagoon and Palace of Knossos on Crete, and the Tholos of Athena Pronaia Sanctuary and Oracle at Delphi.

In my time in Greece I learned that there was much more than just olive oil and seafood to Greek cuisine. Traditionally the Greeks and Cretans ate vegetables, grains, fruits, seafood and olives. In fact their diet was vastly healthier eating homemade unprocessed food, unlike what they do now (which is more like a SAD Westernized diet drenched in copious amounts of olive oil and wine).

So what I took from my travels was using vegetables, grains and herbs in a way that complimented each other to bring out the full flavor of simple vegetable based dishes. The Greek rice stuffed peppers served in Greece are generally stuffed with ground meat as well, but occasionally I found some that were vegan without meat. Mykonos served some at the beach cafes and a Taverna in Delphi had some as well. But these versions used white arborio rice (Italian risotto rice) and were drenched in olive oil.

For my version I decided to switch to whole grain brown rice and remove the olive oil (for health purposes dousing all vegetables in olive oil isn’t recommended). So while it’s not “traditional” it is still very rustic and delicious. I’ve packed it full of dill, parsley and lemon juice so you get all the flavor of the full fat version but without the extra calories.

This recipe is featured in my cookbook Vegan Comfort Foods From Around The World which is available in a digital or physical version wherever you are in the world.

In fact it’s probably my family’s favorite recipe, my mom and even my friends make this recipe regularly as an entree for omnivores and they always receive rave reviews. So it makes me happy that something so simple can be delicious and satisfying to people on a wide variety of diets.

So scroll down for the recipe and get cooking!

Prep Time: 

30 min Total Time: 1 hour 20 min

Yield:

Serves 3-4 for entrées or 6-8 as a side dish

Ingredients

6 large or 8 small bell peppers (any color but green)
1 large onion, diced
3 medium carrots, peeled and diced
3 small zucchinis, peeled and diced
1 cup / 236 ml. vegetable broth
3 cups cooked brown rice
5 Tbsp. tomato paste
3/4 cup whole fresh parsley, de-stemmed and chopped
3/4 cup whole fresh dill, de-stemmed and chopped
1/2-1 lemon, juiced
1/4 tsp. fresh ground pepper
3/4 tsp. Herbamare or salt (or to taste)
1 lemon—cut into wedges (optional)

Directions

Preheat oven to 350 F /175 C. Cut tops off of peppers like you would a jack-o-lantern,
remove seeds, and wash thoroughly.
Place in an oven safe dish arranged upright and put tops back on. Bake for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a large pan, saut. onions, carrots and zucchini in vegetable broth for 5-6 minutes.
Stir in the rice and tomato paste and coat thoroughly.
Add parsley, dill, lemon juice, pepper, and Herbamare or salt and stir to combine.
When peppers are ready, remove from oven and fill with stuffing.
Place tops back on peppers and bake for an extra 30-40 minutes until peppers are soft.
Serve additional wedges of lemon if desired.

Additional Tips

Don’t use green peppers. Green peppers are unripe and much harder. They will not be done in time if you cook them along with red, yellow or orange peppers. Additionally you can substitute white rice for the brown if you like.

Nutrition Facts: 6 Servings

Amount Per Serving

  • Calories 170.9
  • Total Fat 1.4 g
  • Saturated Fat 0.3 g
  • Sodium 325.7 mg
  • Total Carbohydrate 37.1 g
  • Dietary Fiber 5.6 g
  • Sugars 3.6 g
  • Protein 4.4 g

By Low Fat Vegan Chef Veronica

lowfatveganchef.com

 

"But how are you even Greek?" is the reaction I always get when I tell people I don't like figs. I know, I know, how am I even Greek when I don't eat the fruit of the gods, the humble fig? So prominent is it in Greek cooking, figs are making a culinary comeback, used more and more not just in sweet dishes but in savoury. And dried, preserved or sweetened they are delectable enough, but just freshly picked off a tree they can reduce grown men to tears - I've seen it with my own eyes.

And no wonder - in Greek mythology figs are associated with Bacchus, also known as Dionysus, the god of wine and song. Yet this very ancient and biblical fruit is making a resurgence in modern times.

A fig tree is said to appear in some images of the Garden of Eden, giving a religious connotation to this Grecian delicacy. Figs are mentioned in the Christian Bible, but not only that, the Muslims' Koran, and the Jewish Torah. The early Greeks so highly prized figs that it was considered an honour to bestow upon the winner of various competitions both the foliage and fruit of a fig tree. And when modesty became popular in ancient times, the private parts of Greek statues were covered with fig leaves. This also comes from the religious belief Adam and Eve covered their nakedness with leaves that are usually said to be from the fig tree after they ate the forbidden fruit. Even some religious scholars believe the forbidden fruit was in fact a fig. Also, in Greek mythology, when Zeus was pursuing Ge and her son, Sykeus, in the war of the Titans, in order to save her son, Ge metamorphosed into a fig tree.

Figs enjoy a Mediterranean climate that has a long, hot, dry summer, that's why they are so commonly found in Greece and Italy and feature heavily in both cuisines. The fig tree can live as long as 100 years and grow to 100 feet tall, although domestic trees are kept pruned to a height of about 16 feet. There are hundreds of varieties of figs, ranging in colour from nearly black to almost white, and only the female fruits are edible. The green varieties are normally reserved for drying.
The shelf life of fresh figs is brief indeed. They must be picked ripe from the trees as they do not ripen well once picked. A very firm fig is not ripe and will not properly ripen further. Snatch them up and use them as soon as you find them in the market as they will spoil within seven to ten days of harvesting. In most cases this means you have about three days at most to use them at home. Select figs that are clean and dry, with smooth, unbroken skin. The fruit should be soft and bouncy to touch, but not mushy and overripe. Use your nose when picking figs and smell the fruit. If it smells slightly sour, it has already begun to ferment. The fruit is sweet to taste and in ancient times, was used a sweetener before refined sugar. And given they are among the richest plant sources of calcium and fibre you can rest assured you are doing your body a good deed by indulging in figs.

But even though there is a short window to indulge in fresh figs, figs as a fruit can be consumed all year round. Dried figs are readily available - and many varieties and brands are imported from Greece to Australia for consumption here. Also, figs can be made into jams, and preserved for savoury dishes or as spoon sweets to enjoy with coffee. There are also biscuits readily available filled with a fig jam. Fresh and dried figs are also perfect for breakfast. Mixed in with Greek yoghurt and honey it makes a nutritious breakfast option. Preserved figs are great to include in muesli and of course, fig jam is perfect on a toasted piece of sourdough.

By Penni Pappas

http://neoskosmos.com

Friday, 20 February 2015 19:43

Deep Fried And Good For You

Fried food is probably not on anyone’s lists of healthy eats, but you have to start with this: Fat is good for you.The long-lived people of Crete might not drink a glass of olive oil a day, but they consume three times as much as we do, and that’s probably more desirable than our misguided notion that the less fat you eat, the better.

There are differences among fats, of course, but with trans-fats in full retreat and lard and butter making comebacks, the whole fat-eating thing is starting to make some sense. Of course, the key word is moderation. You can eat fat as long as it’s high quality and you don’t eat it to the exclusion of plants.

That’s one reason you shouldn’t reject deep-frying at home; I do it about once a month. The second reason is that you know you love it. The third is that it can be fast and easy. The fourth is that you can deep-fry plants. (And anything else.)

Frying is thought of as messy, but this can be mitigated by the simplest of measures: using a pot that is heavy, broad and deep, like a well-made stockpot. Choose this, add a fair amount of oil and the process is simplified and neat.

Which oil? How much? Since most deep-frying is done at around 180 degrees Celsius, this whole notion that olive oil is inappropriate for frying is nonsense; it smokes at 190 (and smoking isn’t the end of the story, either). So olive oil — especially “pure,” which is a step below extra-virgin and in theory less expensive — is a fine option, especially for something in which you’d like its flavor, which could include any of the recipes here.

Unless, that is, you’re seasoning tempura with soy sauce, in which case you might choose peanut oil, which is as flavorful as olive oil, but obviously different. The third excellent option is grapeseed oil, which is as close to neutral as you can find.

None of these is as inexpensive as vegetable oil, or soy, or corn or Wesson. And if you don’t have problems with chemical extraction, you might choose one of them; they are, after all, what is used for nearly all commercial deep-frying. If, however, you can afford it and you want the best possible frying experience, use one of those three mentioned above, or at least a cold-pressed neutral oil like safflower or sunflower.

Money is an issue, since on the face of it, frying isn’t cheap. When it comes to the “how much” question, I’d say around 6 cups is probably enough in most cases.

But more is generally better, and you can reuse the oil quite a few times for deep-frying, stir-frying or sautéing, as long as you strain out most solids — and you need not be fanatic about this; a quick run through a strainer is fine — and keep it in the refrigerator. (You might consider keeping oil you’re not using in the near future in the refrigerator anyway; rancidity comes from heat and light and it’s nasty. If you have an old bottle of oil sitting around in your kitchen, smell it; you’ll probably throw it away.)

The goal of frying is to crisp the outside perfectly and cook the inside just enough, while keeping the whole package from absorbing more than a bit of oil. Most of this happens magically, as long as you follow the rules, which I’ll get to in a second. There are three or four levels of protection you can give the interior, and all of them become satisfying crusts — again, as long as everything goes right.

The first layer of protection is the stuff itself: you allow the outside of the food you’re cooking to become the crisp part (that’s like a French fry, or falafel or “naked” fried chicken). Then there’s the second layer: a light dusting of cornmeal, flour or the like (I like this with fried squid or fried chicken, especially when seasoned heavily with black pepper). Then a fluffy coating, like tempura or a doughy, pancake-like batter (the latter, it seems to me, is often — perhaps usually — overkill). And finally, the old flour, egg and bread crumb treatment, which is, well, yum.

They’re all pretty much appropriate for anything. You choose the food you want to fry, you choose the coating, you follow these general instructions and it’ll work.

Start by putting at least two inches of oil in a heavy and, as I said, deep pot. Less than two inches and you may not be deep-frying; it’ll work, but you might have to turn the food more often, it might stick to the bottom a bit and it might cook less evenly.

Turn the heat to medium or medium-high and go about your business. Part of that business might be finding a thermometer, because you want that oil to be between 350 and 365 in almost every instance. The heavy pot will help keep that temperature stable.

You don’t have to have a thermometer, though, because there are a couple of other ways to know when the oil is ready. It’s just about right when a pinch of flour sizzles without burning immediately; that’s not super-accurate, but if you then add a single piece of food and it first sinks a bit and then immediately rises to the top, the oil is perfect. If it sits on the bottom like a flounder, the oil isn’t hot enough; if it doesn’t sink at all the oil is too hot. The oil is also too hot if it’s smoking.

Add your food in batches and don’t crowd; you do not want the temperature to plummet, nor do you want the pieces of food nestling against one another. (Though it’s fine if they bump.) You may or may not have to turn the pieces, but that’s easy, because they’ll be floating and they won’t stick. Remove them with a slotted spoon, tongs or spider; you’ll know when they’re done because the color will be evenly gorgeous.

Take it slow and either eat the food as it comes out of the fat (you can drain on paper towels or, if you want to be fancy, a cloth napkin) or keep it warm for as little time as possible in a low oven. Myself, I like to fry when people are standing around eating the food as fast as I can produce it; that is really fun. And good for you.

By Mark Bittman

www.nytimes.com

 

There are a few food-related chores left to do here on Ikaria before taking off for Athens again, among them collecting and pickling kritama (pl.), or rock samphire, one of the most delicious edible plants on the island. Its colloquial Greek name, kritamo, comes from the ancient Greek word for barley, krithmon, because the seeds of both plants resemble one another. Rock samphire isn’t unique to Greece. Indeed, it grows wild along the coasts of the entire Mediterranean as well as in Britain and Ireland. Its English name comes from ”sampiere”, from the French “Saint Pierre” (Saint Peter), the patron saint of fishermen. The plant likes the sea and flourishes in rocky, salt-sprayed cliffs and along beaches. It is sometimes called sea asparagus, sea fennel, or sea pickle.

The English have liked many varieties of samphire for eons. Typically, they pickle them – so do the Greeks. Samphire is mentioned by Shakespeare in King Lear: Half-way down Hangs one that gathers samphire; dreadful trade! (Act IV, Scene VI). In the UK it is a dangerous business to collect this delicious plant.

In Greece, it isn’t so dangerous! On Ikaria, it grows along the rocky backdrop on the main beach, Messakti, as well as all along the coast, indeed, sometimes in treacherous locales.

Samphire is one of the healthiest greens. Its therapeutic values have been known since antiquity. Both Dioscorides, the father of pharmacology, and Pliny, renowned botanist, wrote about its properties. Hippocrates recommended it for its diuretic and detoxifying abilities. It is chock full of antioxidants and has use as such in cosmetics, too. It is said to brighten age spots and to lend a healthy glow to skin.

It is rich in iodine and is packed with phytochemicals that protect the liver, heart and cellular DNA. It is also rich in vitamins A, C, B2, B15, amino acids, and minerals, such as iron, calcium and magnesium phosphorus, calcium, silica, zinc, manganese and vitamin D.

There are several ways to “cure” samphire and many ways to enjoy it. I typically blanch it in generously salted water for a few minutes, drain and then steep in vinegar and salt for 24 hours. Then, I drain the leaves and preserve them in extra virgin olive oil. Kritama make for one of the best ouzo mezedes. I love to serve them with grilled fish, too.

To make pickled samphire/kritama:

Collect 1 pound / half a kilo of the leaves. You want to collect only the tenderest leaves and buds. The time to do this is in May and early June in Greece.
Wash them very well.

Bring a large pot of generously salted water (6 tablespoons to 1 ½ quarts/liters water) to a boil and blanch the samphire for 3-5 minutes, just to soften. The leaves will still be bright green and crunchy.

Rinse and cool.

Pack the leaves tightly in jars then add 2 teaspoons salt and fill the jars with vinegar. Close the lid, turn over a few times, then let stand for 24 hours. Drain, place back in the jars, and cover with olive oil.

By Diane Kochilas
http://dianekochilas.com

 

 

Friday, 20 February 2015 19:51

A Delicious Vegetable That’s Hard To Beat

It’s hard to beat the nutritional power of beets. Although they’re available year-round at the grocery store, right now – late summer though early fall – fresh, locally grown beetroots are at their peak. Beets offer plenty more than just flavour. They’re colourful, nutritious and packed with disease-fighting phytonutrients. Red beets owe their deep crimson hue to betaine, a natural compound thought to help guard against heart disease and cancer.

It is betaine that causes some people to pass reddish coloured urine, called beeturia, after eating beets. It’s a harmless side effect that will subside once the food leaves your system.

Betaine acts as an antioxidant and also helps fight inflammation in the body, a risk factor for many chronic diseases. Research has shown that people who consume the most betaine from foods – versus the least – have lower blood levels of inflammatory immune compounds, including C-reactive protein.

Beets are good for your liver, too. That’s because the liver uses betaine to neutralize toxins so they can be removed from the body. Beets also offer plenty of folate, a B vitamin used to create and repair DNA and make red blood cells. And beets are a good source of potassium, a mineral that helps keep blood pressure in check.

It’s true that beets have more natural sugar than other vegetables (although considerably less than fruit), but they are still low in calories. One-half cup of cooked beets, for example, delivers only 37 calories. (The same serving size of broccoli has 27 calories.)

If long cooking times deter you from eating beets more often, oven roast or boil whole, unpeeled, scrubbed beets in advance. That way it takes only a few minutes to heat them or add them to a salad. Or, cut unpeeled medium-sized beets into quarters and steam them for 15 minutes. You can also grill slices of raw beets, brushed with olive oil, for eight to 10 minutes per side.

Per serving, cooked beets have nearly twice as much betaine as raw beets. Folate and potassium are similar for cooked and raw beets, provided you cook them in their skin.

Don’t stop at the beetroot. Beet greens are also packed with nutrition, in particular beta-carotene and lutein, an antioxidant that helps maintain healthy vision. Toss washed beet greens into salads, add them to soups and pasta sauces, or sauté them in olive oil and crushed garlic until tender.

Beet nutrition

Per 1/2 cup of cooked, sliced red beets:

37 calories

0 grams fat

1.7 grams fibre

6.7 grams sugar

259 mg potassium

68 mcg folate

217 mg betaine

Beets seven ways

Go raw. Add grated raw beets to salads, coleslaw and wraps.

Blend. Purée chopped, cooked beets into a fruit or green smoothie.

Roast. Include beets in a medley of oven-roasted root vegetables, such as carrots, parsnips and turnips. Beets take longer to cook than other vegetables, so pre-roast them, then add to the other vegetables near the end of their cooking time.

Sauté. Heat chopped, precooked beets in olive oil with freshly squeezed orange juice and grated orange rind. Garnish with chopped chives.

Toss. Serve sliced roasted or grilled beets over a bed of greens. Add orange slices, toasted walnuts and a sprinkle of feta or goat’s cheese.

Slurp. Enjoy a bowl of borscht, a traditional Russian soup made with beets.

Snack. Bake beet chips by tossing peeled and thinly sliced beets (use a mandolin) with olive oil. Spread slices evenly on a baking sheet; bake at 200 C until crispy. Sprinkle with sea salt.

By Leslie Beck

www.theglobeandmail.com

Friday, 20 February 2015 20:06

Greek Fish And Seafood

If you take a look at a map of Greece you will see why fish is such an important part of the Greek diet. For such a small country there is a lot of coastline which is why they have such a strong history of seafaring.

Eating seafood goes along with that. Unfortunately the sea which was once so abundant is now barren in places through over-fishing and the Aegean sea simply can't keep up with the demand of a seafood-loving population whose numbers swell during the tourist season. Fish can be very expensive, though there are inexpensive fish available year-round, and these are just as tasty as the expensive ones.

Lets start at the bottom and make our way up the fish chain. The cheapest fish are sardeles (sardines), gavros (anchovies), kolios (mackerel), gopa (bogue) and marides (smelt). Also in this inexpensive category are kalamari (squid), though the frozen variety which is usually, if not always, imported from California, China and other far away places. When kalamari is in season they will tell you on the menu that it is fresh. When cut and fried it is usually frozen but fresh kalamari is grilled or fried whole. In the kalamari family is also thrapsala which to you and I looks like a squid and tastes like a squid but is not a squid. Well maybe it is a squid but they call it thrapsala and like fresh kalamari they serve it grilled or fried whole. In the same family are soupia (cuttlefish) which have shorter tentacles and are never fried but cooked in a stew with tomato sauce. Octopus, which is eaten in small amounts as a meze (snack) can be local or can come from China or the Atlantic. Octopus can be served in a number of ways which I will go into later. In between there are a number of fish whose price depends on supply and include xifia (sword fish), a couple varieties of Mediterranean tuna, and a whole family of bream, trout and even mollusks. Included among them is fagri (red porgy), sargos (sea-bream), lavraki (sea bass),  lithrini (pandora), and synagrida (dentex) most of which are either baked or grilled and sold by the kilo.

Then at the top of the fish food chain is astakos (lobster), which can cost a small fortune and is familiar to anyone who has taken a charter sailboat around the islands because many skippers take their clients to the tavernas that serve fresh lobster or the newly popular astako makaronada (macaroni with lobster). Not surprising since skippers often get a commission from the restaurants for any business they bring and a table full of lobster can cost a few hundred euros or more. But here's a tip. Save your lobster-money for home. Mediterranean lobsters are over-rated, under-tasty and few chefs have mastered the cooking of these creatures. They also lack claws which besides the tails are the only edible part unless you want to spend the night sucking bits of meat from legs and antennae. Yes. The Greek lobsters have meat in the antennae. But not enough to justify eating them. In Milos I did see lobsters with claws at the restaurant of the famous Roberto at Da Peppe. "Where did you find lobsters with claws?" I asked him in wonder. "On the airplane" he said in his broken English. They were flown in, maybe from Maine, definitely from somewhere on the Atlantic.

To read more, please visit greecefoods.com

It's the season for white truffles and one of the best restaurants to samples these delicacies in Athens is Sale e Pepe in Kolonaki. The restaurant serves Italian food which focuses on serving seasonal specialities. The owner Ivan Ottaviani, is a big wine lover and the restaurant has one of the best wine lists in Athens with a focus on Italian wines. The service is extremely friendly however prices are on the high side (apetizers 15-20 Euros, main dish around 30Euros, cheese and desert around 20 Euros). White truffle dishes cost approximately 50 Euros.

Wonderful restaurant with a very nice view of the Acropolis (which is more subtle than Orizontes).Sale e Pepe has a tasting menu available for a minimum of 2 persons. Nice wine selection but you may be pushed to buy Grecian wine by the sommelier.

Sale e Pepe, Tel 210-7234102, address 34 Aristippou Street - Kolonaki

Review: It was a Friday afternoon and friends suggested we go out to dinner. After discussing some potential restaurant choices we decided to book at Sale e Pepe in the Kolonaki area of central Athens. An out-of-the-way Italian restaurant, housed on a narrow street on the slopes of the Lycabettus; where parking is typically a nightmare.

I knew Sale e Pepe from Mykonos: a very small but pleasant restaurant that served tasty Italian food with a slight twist. Prices were a bit steep, but being in Mykonos, over-inflated prices compared to Athens is the norm. I remembered at that moment that Sale e Pepe in Mykonos had closed down a few years back but had not learnt why.

We arrived fifteen minutes late as Athens was under a sheet of rain. Walking in, two 30-something aged women took our coats and seated us. I had the impression that the waitresses were overacting, something common in the US but not in Greece. They gave me the feeling of having had stepped out of “Interview of a Vampire”, seemingly ready to suck our blood. My worst fears were later confirmed, although I did give them the benefit of the doubt for perhaps trying to play their role in the setting of the space they were at. The restaurant was dark. The look was that of a gentrified German autobahn stop. But again, laden with cupboards full of wine on display, the stale smell possibly attributed to its all-surrounding wooden interior, I considered that perhaps I was being too harsh with my first impressions.

So now we were seated. Having heard us conversing in English, they offered us an English menu. A thoughtful touch. We held onto both the Greek and English menus. We like to compare for fun. A 100-page wine “Encyclopaedia” was handed to us, to complement the culinary adventure we were unknowingly about to embark on. The extensive list included wines from Spain, France, Italy, Greece… Lebanon - all with a very expensive price tag. I immediately felt awkward. I was the one who had to choose. I then understood the restaurant’s focus is wine, as a way of complementing the rich Northern Italian tastes it offers. Having narrowed down to a short list, we went down the safe path of ordering a Brunelo from Tuscany, at 60 euro a bottle. It made us reminisce back on a pleasant road-trip a few years ago in the like-named Italian province. The waitress couldn’t help herself from remarking that one of our three pre-selected wines would be better revisited in a few years… at that time I knew we were in trouble! I could also not help at that point but have felt a little uneasy and frankly a little irritated at having been ‘told off’ for not being quite the connoisseur she so clearly wanted us to know she was.

The menu was not so complicated in presentation as much as in content… Loads of venison, wild duck, quail eggs, cod (written cold in the English menu), accompanied by pasta and fruity tastes. My stomach started making strange noises. We were all puzzled with the combinations so it took us a good long while to select the most appropriate dish to each of us. I finally ordered the risotto with Tuscan sausage and leeks. Whilst I liked that the restaurant offered more eclectic Italian tastes unlike the classic pizza, spaghetti, mozzarella, the prices on the menu were frightful.

The final couple we were waiting to join us was late. We were hungry and asked for some bread to fill in time. Our waitress took that opportunity to jump on us by rather assertively suggesting a cheese platter. A two minute explanation followed. We had the four types of aged cheeses explained to us. There was also a plate with finely carved and truly very tasty St. Danielle prosciutto on the menu which we asked for. It was served with two poached eggs and black truffle shavings. Both plates were rich tasting enough to avert us from choosing any additional starters.

As the main courses arrived, the plates were small portioned, as should be for a four course menu, but substantial in taste.

One of us ordered a starter salad as a main course. The menu read “cuttlefish and langoustine salad with crispy vegetables”. We asked what crispy vegetables meant and were told that they were lightly sautéed and then corrected to them being marinated. In fact they consisted of one tuft of plain boiled broccoli, one of cauliflower and half a carrot. The single langoustine turned out to be a shrimp – not even king prawn – again plainly boiled and unseasoned, and the cuttlefish was mediocre in that the olive oil it was covered in was truly tasty.

The gentleman across from me ordered venison with parpardele. Half way through the meal, his eyes rolled as he gasped that the dish was too rich for him. I had a taste and instantly flashed back to a road-kill story in New England. The venison stank!

In all honesty my risotto was ok, cooked properly al-dente, but at around 30 euros a serving I expected something even slightly more sophisticated. The remaining dishes I would say were all simply decent, without much to rave about.

I was tired and getting a little restless with the whole experience, knowing that I wouldn’t be able to sleep well in the next few hours. My stomach had already started to feel like the financial market - in crisis.

As some wanted to end the night on a sweet note, we ordered desserts: a sweet crepe with cheese and a tarte tatin. Our waitress, in her classic mode, also pushed an assortment of three chocolate desserts on us. They were all pleasant in appearance but dissatisfying in taste. The crepe was squishy, the tarte was soggy. Of the three chocolate dishes, the chocolate soufflé was overcooked and reminded me of my puppy’s excrement I recently scooped up, the chocolate pyramid covered in granules of rock salt was just plainly bizarre and the chocolate cube with orange syrup was simply boring.

And finally time to pay! Our waitress was happy to remark that the Lemoncelo shots were on the house! At 110 euro per person (around $150)… I wondered what this restaurant’s strategy was: considering that we are in time of financial crisis, the restaurant was 10% full on a Friday night and prices where totally off compared to the tastes provided.

Overall I would recommend this restaurant to wine lovers alone who might wish to accompany their selection with a cheese or meat platter. Beware and be prepared when venturing down to main course and please make sure you eat early and you arrive on a very! empty stomach.

www.stafida.gr

 

Friday, 20 February 2015 20:23

Skordalia - The Greek Garlic Dip

Skordalia, the Greek garlic dip, belongs to the grand tradition of Mediterranean garlic pastes and like them, it is almost never served alone; instead, it plays an accompanying role to fried fish and seafood or to classics like boiled beets.

While there are as many methods for frying salt cod as there are cooks who fry it, skordalia variations tend to follow a regional vein. I have always been impressed by the wealth of regional expressions when it comes to this simple peasant dish, as well as to the ritual that often goes into its preparation.

Garlic, olive oil, and salt are the constants in all Greek skordalia recipes, but the base, acid, and consistency vary from place to place. Dried bread, boiled potatoes, and nuts, especially almonds, pine nuts or walnuts, may all be used as the base of this pungent specialty, either alone or together with stale bread or potatoes. One recipe, from the Peloponnese, calls for starchy chestnuts. Fresh lemon juice, fish stock or broth, and vinegar are the liquids that help balance the final flavors. At least one version, a traditional recipe of the Asia Minor Greeks, calls for pistachios; the skordalia of Nea Marmara in Halkidiki is made with feta and mint; one delicious, obscure recipe popular in the traditional shepherd’s cooking of the Greeks who came to Greece from the Black Sea, is made with almonds, yogurt and vinegar.

Connoisseurs of skordalia know that a certain ritual is part and practice of its preparation. I will never forget once walking in on an old caterer friend who was making skordalia for a party—by hand, potato by potato, drop by drop of olive oil, pinch by pinch of salt, in a mortar, pounding each potato with the pestle with zenlike rhythm. To this day, the mortar and pestle are the best tools for making skordalia because they allow for the control of speed with which one breaks down the starch in the potatoes or bread that most commonly make up the base. A food processor’s blade is too swift and violent and results in a gummy skordalia. Unless the potatoes are cold, which is the advice of the family fry master, who, between dipping chunks of salt cod in his secret batter and frying them with the patience of Jove, he also sometimes takes a stand near the mixer, making the dish in question. Cold potatoes don’t break down as easily, it turns out, as hot ones. But they also don’t absorb oil as easily.

Aliada

In the Ionian islands, skordalia is called aliada, clearly an Italian sounding word and once that evinces vincing the influence that 200 hundred or so years of Venetian administration over these islands brought to their cookery.

Perhaps nowhere is the certainty of ritual more obvious than in the old cooks of Cephalonia, where the island’s aliada is made with rules developed over centuries. Mortar and pestle are de rigueur, the vessel and mechanism by which the first steps in the making of skordalia are taken as the cook pounds garlic cloves and salt to a smooth paste. In a separate plate, traditionally made of wood or fired clay, she mashes boiled potatoes either with the pestle or with a fist-sized smooth stone. A pot nearby contains salt cod that’s been soaked and is now simmering to further desalt it. Its broth provides the gustatory undertones and depth of flavor in the final aliada and is added to the garlic and salt, to be followed by a few spoonfuls of partially mashed potatoes. Slowly, step by step and increment by increment, each of these ingredients is wedded to the final, smooth and silky potato-based aliada which is partnered with crispy fried salt cod or other small, fried fish.

By Diane Kochilas

dianekochilas.com

Friday, 20 February 2015 20:26

Delicious Loukoumades

The simplest things in life are often the best. Clichéd? Of course, but also quite often true. Take these classic loukoumades, for example. Their name sounds pretty exotic, but when you break them down, they’re nothing more than little balls of fried dough. Now don’t get us wrong, we love little balls of fried dough (and so do many other people if their proliferation in many cultures is anything to go by – doughnuts, churros or beignets, anyone?). But there’s not much to them: flour, yeast and water, sometimes a pinch of sugar or a drizzle of oil or melted butter. Easy peasy.

Greek cooks give loukoumades their distinctive shape by squeezing the very soft dough through their hands into the hot oil and turning the dough while it cooks until it is puffed and golden. Be very careful doing this as the hot oil may spit and there has been the odd report of an exploding loukoumada. Drain them on absorbent paper, drizzle them with honey – single-blossom is good for added flavour and fragrance – and scatter them with ground cinnamon for the traditional version of this luscious dish. Don’t stand on ceremony, either, waiting for the whole batch to cook. These little golden beauties are best served as hot as you can handle.

We’ve glammed our loukoumades up with wedges of photogenic (and tasty) figs and fragrant thyme leaves, but at their heart they remain the essence of simplicity. Simple, perhaps, but we’re betting you won’t be able to stop at one (or even two).

Ingredients

14 gr (about 2 sachets) dried yeast
300 gr (2 cups) plain flour, sieved
For deep-frying: vegetable oil
10 black figs, quartered

Honey and thyme syrup

360 gr (1 cup) Attiki or other Greek honey
110 gr (½ cup) sugar
1 lemon, thinly peeled rind and juice only
2 tbsp thyme leaves, plus extra to serve


METHOD

1. Combine yeast and 250ml warm water ina large bowl, stir to combine, then add 75gm flour, stir and set aside until foamy (5-7 minutes). Add remaining flour, 250ml warm water and a pinch of salt and beat with a wooden spoon until smooth and elastic. Cover and set aside until doubled in size (1-1½ hours).
2. Meanwhile, for honey and thyme syrup, combine honey, sugar, rind, juice and 125ml water in a small saucepan over medium heat, stir until sugar dissolves (3-5 minutes), then simmer until slightly reduced and syrupy (5-7 minutes). Remove from heat, cool slightly, add thyme leaves and set aside to cool to room temperature.
3. Meanwhile, heat vegetable oil in a deep-fryer or deep-sided frying pan to 180C. Spoon tablespoons of batter into oil, or squeeze them through your hands (be careful as hot oil may spit), and turn occasionally until golden and cooked through (3-4 minutes). Remove with a slotted spoon, drain on absorbent paper. Serve warm with figs, drizzled with syrup and scattered with extra thyme.


Note This recipe comes courtesy of Mary Loucas, mother of GT editor Anthea Loucas and is from the March 2010 issue of Australian Gourmet Traveller.

Serves 10

Cooking Time Prep time 20 mins, cook 25 mins (plus proving, cooling)

WORDS Emma Knowles RECIPE Alice Storey and Mary Loucas PHOTOGRAPHY Ben Dearnley STYLING Geraldine Munoz and Alice Storey

For more information, please visit Gourmettraveller.com.au

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