The blackboard hanging outside Dexameni’s cramped kitchen reads, “Kindergarten-Bar-Nursing Home,” the title jokingly bestowed upon the café by the eminent novelist and poet Alexandros Papadiamantis. He was among the literati who made Dexameni their regular hangout shortly after it opened in the early 1900s – so regular that the place ended up serving as a home-away-from-home for all stages of life. By 2009, however, Dexameni had lost its traditional, old-fashioned character, the prices had gone up and the municipality of Athens had begun asking for exorbitant rent, so it closed for a spell. Since reopening in 2012 under the management of two area bar owners, it has been very busy, with locals even queuing up for tables on warm summer nights (reservations are not accepted).

The café – built on a steep road that was once part of the Athenian countryside – and the neighborhood get their name (“cistern” in Greek) from the water reservoirs that were built here during Hadrian’s reign (AD 117-138), near the outskirts of beautiful Mount Lycabettus, in what is now wonderfully posh Kolonaki, downtown’s chicest area. The name stuck, not just for the area as a whole but also for its square (complete with an open-air cinema also called Dexameni), where children like to play football, ride their bikes and make noise.

Dexameni is a largely open-air venue; it consists of a small stone building that houses the kitchen and bathrooms and that’s about it. The tables and chairs are scattered around outside on two wide, steep sidewalks, separated by a pedestrianized street. Half of the fun of eating here is the people-watching, which is a favorite pastime among patrons, especially in the summertime. Dexameni has always been that rare Athenian venue – a place for everyone at all times – and the new proprietors have made a point of keeping it that way.  There are old men reading their paper in the mornings (a Greek coffee costs a mere €1.50), ladies who lunch after 1p.m., students and businessmen dressed in suits who come for coffee and beer, and an endless number of children playing football, bicycling or hide-and-seek behind strangers while their parents eat with their friends.  At night there isn't a single age group not represented here.  Kids play till late while their parents drink and dine, twenty-somethings flirt in big groups while nibbling on their meze plates, and older couples quietly look on.

To read more, please visit: Culinary Backstreets

by

Despina Trivolis

Photo credit: Manteau Stam

Greek coastal ferry operator Hellenic Seaways recently expressed its interest to operate new routes from Izmir to the Greek islands and Thessaloniki.

The announcement followed an event organized in Izmir by the North Aegean Region and the Izmir Chamber of Commerce and attended by local authorities, Hellenic Seaways, tourism professionals and journalists.

During the event, representatives of Hellenic Seaways presented a complete transportation network that would cover the needs of both countries.

To read more, please visit: Greek Travel Pages

The lights of Greek tourism, culture and gastronomy will flash in the heart of Manhattan, New York, USA in May 2017 for the highly anticipated first exhibition 'Greek Panorama!'

The first 'Greek Panorama' exhibition focused on Tourism, Culture and Gastronomy exclusively for Greece is organized by Hellas North American Events Inc. in collaboration with the company North Events and will be held in the iconic Grand Central Terminal Station, which is one of the most important historic buildings of Manhattan, in the city center, on 11-13 May 2017.

It is the first time that such a dynamic and integrated organized promotion and advertisement action for Greece takes place in this area, at a spot where over 750,000 daily residents, workers and foreign visitors of New York pass through!

With three American companies flying directly to Athens and the daily flight of Emirates, all year round, the exhibition steps forward to bring Greece closer to the American traveling audience and America, an audience that has doubled its arrivals in our country within the recent years.

The exhibition will take place at the Vanderbilt Hall of Grand Central Terminal (42nd Street and Vanderbilt Avenue junction) and will include presentations for each tourist destination in Greece and the exposure of sectors such as luxury tourism, Greek gastronomy, real estate, shopping, yachting & cruises etc.

On Friday, May 12, 2017 and Saturday, May 13, 2017, the exhibition will be open to the public for free.

The opening of the exhibition is scheduled for Thursday, May 11, 2017, which will be dedicated exclusively to professionals from the US and the Greek market with b2b meetings at a central hotel in New York, with the aim of cultivating professional relationships and networking of both sides. Key members of the US tourism market will be in contact with representatives of Greek tourism.

Similarly, in the evening of the same day professionals and exhibitors will have the opportunity to attend the official dinner of the 'Greek Panorama' with guest representatives from Greek and American tourism market, as well as numerous journalists and participants.

'Greek Panorama' exhibition is organized with the support of the main tourism operators in Greece and abroad.

The Greek community stands once again, on the side of this important initiative, as well as the entire Greek American community. Great personalities will be present in the exhibition while many surprises should also be expected for the participants.

One of them is the interview of the –maybe- top Greek basketball player, in the new Greek American magazine Hellas Blu, which will be released just before the opening of the exhibition. The first festive edition will have some additional surprises such as the famous ultramarathon Konstantinos (Dean) Karnazes.

The magazine will be published three times a year and will be distributed at key points and specially selected recipients while its content will be exclusively dedicated to Greece. It will include among others, extensive special editions focused on selected destinations in Greece, interviews with key persons of the Greek American community and distinguished Greeks and Americans from the political, business, sports and artistic world, columns devoted to gastronomy, culture and specific forms of tourism, as well as news, proposals and useful information about Greece, its tourism, services, products, events, etc.

'Greek Panorama' exhibition and its parallel events are one of the main axes of the strategy of Hellas North American Events Inc. for the Northern American market as the plan designed includes actions and respective initiatives throughout the year.

It should be emphasized that North Events organizes with great success the 'Grecka Panorama' tourism exhibition in Poland and the unique tourism exhibition 'Grekland Panorama' in Sweden.

Please visit Greek Panorama for more information.

Consumers in Greece will be required as of January 1^st, 2018 to pay 4 cents per plastic bag as the country prepares to harmonize its relevant law with EU guidelines, according to a draft bill being drawn up by the environment ministry and set to be tabled in parliament.

The aim is to reduce the number of bags per consumer to 90 per year per person in the next two years, and to 40 by 2025. According to Research Institute of Retail Consumer Goods (IELKA) findings, consumers in Greece use a total of 4.3 billion plastic bags per year of which only 1 percent is recycled.

Greece holds the top spot in Europe in terms of per capita use of plastic bag exceeding the EU average of 175 per person.

It  has also been announced that from January 1^st, 2019 the cost per plastic bag will increase to 9 cents!

The 36th Athens Authentic Marathon was held with great success yesterday, November 11th. This year the race brought together more than 55,000 runners from 106 countries. The 42,195m race is more than just a sporting event, it’s a tribute to Greek history, human willpower, solidarity, friendship, and social responsibility. A total of 18,70 runners took part in the historic Marathon race, while thousands joined the 3 & 5 & 10 kilometer road races, the kids' fun runs, and the Special Olympics Hellas Fun Run.

The Marathon area is of great historical significance, as it was the site of the famous Marathon battle that took place in 490 BC. After the battle was won by the Greeks, a soldier named Pheidippides was sent to Athens to deliver the news. Pheidippides ran all the way to Athens and managed to say, "We have won," before he collapsed and died. That was the first marathon in history and to this day the runners of the Athens Authentic Marathon follow the exact same route.

 

'The legend continues. Each year the Athens Marathon gets better and better,' said Paco Borao, President of AIMS, the Association of International Marathons and Distance Races, at the press conference for the 'Athens Marathon. The Authentic.'

The city of Athens looks forward to welcoming even more runners from around the world for the Athens Authentic Marathon in 2019!

Photo Credit: @chromecabrio

A cleaner future awaits the city of Athens as the new Athens Partnership initiative will see 20,000 m2 of graffiti tags and illegal posters disappear. The anti-tagging initiative aims promote and restore the charm of Athens’ historic center."

Many people presume that items such as plastic bags and coffee cups can be recycled when they can't. Here are some do's and don'ts for more efficient recycling!

Lately, consumers are increasingly willing to recycle their household waste, but are falling behind when it comes to some basic rules of recycling, which means that a lot of recyclable waste ends up in the landfill.

 

Typical mistakes include putting tissue boxes in the recycling bin without first removing the plastic insert. On the other hand, people often wrongly think that an empty deodorant aerosol container cannot be recycled.

Here is a list of some of the most common misconceptions about what can and cannot be recycled.

Things That CAN'T Be Recycled

• Liquid soap pump dispenser tops
• Kitchen roll
• Non-paper gift wrap
• Coffee cups
• Plastic bags
• Tissues
• Glass cookware
• Window glass
• Straws
• Greasy takeaway pizza boxes
• Soft plastic/laminated foil packaging such as pet food and baby food pouches
• Photo paper
• Nail varnish bottles
• Crisp packets
• Post-it notes
• Shampoo bottles and food containers that have not been rinsed
• Tissue boxes where the plastic insert has not been removed
• Plastic toys
• Mirrors
• Cutlery
• Pots and pans

Items That CAN Be Recycled

• Kitchen foil and foil trays that are used but still clean
• Empty deodorant aerosols and hairspray with the plastic cap
• Empty surface cleaner bottle with the trigger spray
• Metal lids
• Empty bleach bottles
• Envelopes with windows

The monumental side of Athens comes at you like fireworks frozen in time, but if showstoppers like the Acropolis dazzle the first-time visitor, they also form part of the daily tapestry of life for regular Athenians. Tuning into the local rhythms is not necessarily an exercise in what's 'Instagrammable'. Rather, as a resident observer of this pulsing city, I’ve found that some of the best things about Athens are those little backstage sights and sounds that add up to an urban experience that can border on the theatrical. A tangible modern energy mixes with ancient allure, and despite some disruptions caused by the recent lockdowns, life goes on in a modified Athenian style. Here’s how to claim some of that celebrated Athens groove for yourself and feel more like a local (though you might have to be patient for just a little while longer to experience a couple of these suggestions):

Stroll Through Mets To Pangrati

Mets is one of the quietest central Athens neighbourhoods—and not just because it's home to the historic First Cemetery of Athens (where you’ll find the elaborate tomb of Heinrich Schliemann, the archaeologist who excavated ancient Troy). The streets here are an alluring jumble of townhouses in pastel shades with abundant pink bougainvillea flowers fluttering about. Some of the side roads, like Nikiforou Theotoki and Klitomachou, seem to leap right off of a 'Welcome to Athens" movie screen. Wander over to Varnava Square, where Mets flows into the bohemian heart of Pangrati. The little oval-shaped square is lined with traditional restaurants and hipster cafes--grab a takeaway coffee from Oliver Nuts & Flavours (20 Empedokelous) and take in the scene, even if it's somewhat more subdued right now.

Go To The Same Bakery Three Days In A Row

At the time of the first lockdown in spring 2020, I was heartened to see bakeries listed as essential businesses. The fournos, or bakery, is indeed an indispensable ingredient of Athenian life. Nearly every fournos sells the same staples but many have specialty items too, and some are quite posh—especially in upscale neighbourhoods like Kolonaki. Find one that you like and go there a few mornings in a row. After around the third day, they will likely start to recognise you and maybe even offer you a sample of that morning's fresh baked specialty. My current faves are Queen Bee at 45 Patriarchou Ioakim in Kolonaki (for the almond croissants), Afrato at 13 Evridamantos in Neos Kosmos (best cinnamon buns in town) and, slightly further afield in Ano Glyfada, Special Cakes (168 Dim. Gounari) for a whimsical atmosphere and heavenly layer cakes.

Take A Walk On The Fancy Side

New York has Park Avenue. Athens has Irodou Attikou Street - which is much shorter, but packs in more pomp and circumstance as the home of both the Presidential Palace and Maximou Mansion, official seat of the Greek Prime Minister. Tucked between Vassilis Sofias Avenue (on the north) and Vasileos Konstantinou and the Panathenaic Stadium on the south, the street straddles the National Garden and at all hours of the day or night, you'll clock Evzones dutifully standing guard at their posts along the street.

Go Higher Than The Acropolis

On most fair weathered weekends, many Athenians make a dash for Mount Ymittos. At 1,026 metres, this popular green escape is about seven times taller than the Acropolis. The ridge, which they call Trellos (the "crazy mountain"), forms the long eastern spine of the Attica basin and actually supplied fountains with drinking water in ancient Athens. Today there are hiking trails galore, but it's even worth commandeering a taxi if you have to, for your dose of sylvan splendour and the mesmerizing views of city and sea.

Swap Plaka For Mitropoleos Street

Most visitors make a beeline for the sinuous lanes of charming Plaka and rightly so. But as you’d expect, it's not where Athenians go to shop. For a more native retail experience, head one block south of bustling Ermou Street - the pedestrianized retail artery of global and Greek brands stretching from Syntagma Square - to the quieter and prettier Mitropoleos Street. This slender street is home to the impressive Metropolitan Church of Athens with its pretty plaza and is also packed with interesting one-off shops. There’s Dangerous Minds, where you can pick up cool street-rooted labels , Greek gourmet hotspot, the Ergon House food hotel; plus the "secret" back entrance to Hondos Center, the Greek emporium where locals go to stock up on their beauty and grooming staples (the main entrance is on Ermou).

Get A Greek Haircut

Speaking of… Athenians are obsessed with good grooming and it sometimes seems like there are more barbershops and hair salons in Athens than there are Athenians. Getting your locks styled or bangs trimmed is arguably as much a social exercise as an aesthetic one in the Greek capital. Of course, these days, you need to make an appointment in advance, but go on and give it a try. I can't speak for the ladies, but for a great gent's cut I'm partial to Music Barber Shop in Pangrati (21 Eratosthenous).

Potter About The Pnyx

The Pnyx hill is the storied place where ancient Athenians gathered for their ekklesia, the early democratic assemblies, and the ruins of the big carved steps and stone speakers' platform are still there. With the Parthenon in the background, this forested spot is truly beautiful – especially at sunset - but still tends to be better known among locals than visitors who generally flock to Philopappou instead.

Go to Piraeus—But Skip The Ferry

You may know Piraeus as the hectic port of Athens and the place where you go for that mad dash to the ferry, but did you know you can also get some of that Aegean island flavour without so much as stepping foot on a boat? Sunny weekend days and summer evenings after work see Athenians sidling up to breezy cafes and tavernas to enjoy fresh seafood by the water's edge in the atmospheric Piraeus 'hood of Mikrolimano. This poetic round harbour is just a short taxi ride from the center of Athens. Behind it, Kastella hill affords stunning views of the Saronic Gulf from the top. Or venture to elegant Zea Marina. There, on the south side of this horseshoe-shaped harbour, the yachts come in all shapes, sizes and colours: Greek sea daydreaming guaranteed.

This content was originally published on This is Athens

Written by: Anthony Grant
Photo Credit: Thomas Gravanis

---

Whether you’ve just arrived in town – or have been here for years – Athens always has new secrets to share! This is Athens is the official guide to this captivating city of ancient energies and booming urban culture. Compiled by a team of specialist local writers, This is Athens brings you an authentic and intimate portrait of a living Athens beyond the guidebooks – along with daily curated listings of all the best events and great weekend inspiration all-year round. From must-know neighbourhoods and emerging art hubs, to gourmet hotspots, cool shopping and the buzziest bars, This is Athens will help you to get the most out of living in Athens!

Thank you This is Athens for your contribution as an XpatAthens Partner.