By Maria Ermides
After spending the summer melting in Athens and scrolling through endless posts of friends who had escaped to the islands, the invitation to join a Nefeli Nine retreat felt like one I couldn’t refuse.
All I knew was that it was set in the mountainous peninsula of Pelion, with daily yoga and hikes. Everything else, like the details you don’t want to worry about on a trip, would be handled by founder Stephanie Contomichalos and her team. I mean, nature, stillness, and a chance to reconnect with my love of yoga and see a different side of Greece? It was an obvious yes.
Our journey began on a Saturday, when we gathered at the airport for the 4+ hour trip. We were met by Elias, our hiking guide, and Irini, our yoga teacher—who would quickly become not just guides, but companions throughout the week.
Elias introduced us to Moirolói music on the drive, explaining how it honored the dead by celebrating life. And it was these little snippets of culture and knowledge from the team, sprinkled over the next 6 days, that would make it feel all the more enriching.
As someone prone to motion sickness, the thought of a long journey was daunting. But after a seaside stop in Kamena Vourla for meze and conversation with our group, the hours melted away. It was in that moment, over shared plates, that I knew this week would be much more than just a holiday.
As I scanned the property, I mentally took note of where I would sit and ponder- by the pool, by the many ledges overlooking the spectacular view, or even in my lovely room. So many options.
By early evening, we arrived at Archontiko Stathopoulou Hotel and were greeted by Steph herself—apron on, slipping out of dinner preparations to give us a very warm welcome. From first glance at the property, I was completely blown away. Not only by the view of the Pagasitikos gulf and the village nestled amongst the mountains, but also by how tranquil it felt. Dating back to the 19th century, the first detail I noticed about the hotel was the stunning murals, adorning ceilings around the villa, including my bedroom. Waking up beneath them each morning truly felt like waking up inside my own private art gallery. If there was ever a place to unwind, release your worries, and simply be, this was it. I found myself already mapping out where I’d spend quieter moments between yoga and hikes—by the pool, perched on a ledge overlooking the view, or tucked away in my room.
I think for many, the prospect of going somewhere new solo can be intimidating. Especially when you aren’t surrounded by the comfort of familiar faces or maybe even the familiarity of your favourite pillow. But from that first evening, as we all gathered for our first dinner at our new home for the week, it became very clear that this was a safe space to be.
Steph briefed us on what was to come, including our yoga schedule and the days we would be doing hikes, as well as making sure to include the level of difficulty. What was emphasised also was that we weren’t obliged to participate all of the time. Too tired for the morning yoga class? Sleep in. Don’t quite feel like a hike on the last day? Feel free to lounge by the pool. Going on a retreat with Nefeli Nine is not signing your life away to some sort of militant boot camp. The pace, as I came to find, is very manageable, and food—and carbs in general—are passed around and enjoyed freely.
Speaking of food, this was a definite highlight of the trip. Steph is a woman of many passions and interests, and cooking is most certainly one of them. Each morning, after our energising 8 a.m. yoga class with Irini, we were greeted by a table of homemade granola, rich Greek yoghurt, seasonal fruit, and whatever magical creation she had baked that day. These breakfasts set the tone for days full of energy and movement, making sure we were always adequately fed.
Missing the nature I loved so much back in Australia, I didn’t know what to expect hiking in Greece. To clarify, I would consider myself a hiking enthusiast—not quite a novice but certainly not an expert either. It had been more than a year since I had gone for a long hike, so on the first day, hiking roughly 4.8 km from Milies to Kala Nera, I was adamant to go slow. With Elias at the front and Steph and Eirini always nearby for a chat or a mental boost, you always feel taken care of, allowing you to find your rhythm on your own terms. Whether that be hanging back to enjoy the view, or gaining momentum up the hills at the front, there is room for all levels and abilities. What I loved most is that you can truly switch your brain off and feel like all the details are handled—from the route you take down to the taverna you eventually stop at for lunch (more on this later).
Each day brought something fresh and inspiring. A few highlights:
Day 1: Hiking from Milies to Kala Nera, rewarded with a seafront lunch at Rodia Taverna—refreshing shandies and the sweet satisfaction of our first accomplishment for the week.
Day 2: Picking apples, figs, and grapes straight from the trees, then sharing homemade spanakopita mid-hike. The joy of simple abundance.
Day 3: Exploring Milies village, stepping into Taxiarches Church, buying jars of local honey and jams, and ending with a swim at tranquil Labinou beach, followed by the best calamari I’ve ever had.
Day 4: Kayaking from Damouchari to Fakistra, enjoying dakos salad on the sand, and soaking in the charm of a village so picturesque Mamma Mia was filmed there.
Day 5: Our final hike, just minutes from the hotel, ending in a village square where locals handed us celebratory grapes. Lunch that day—prepared with Steph’s signature love—felt especially meaningful.
Day 6: One last yoga class with Eirini whose expertise and care, made every session feel like a wonderful lesson in philosophy, movement and attunement.
Driving back altogether, I remarked to one of the guests I had the pleasure of getting to know, as we pulled up at a familiar pit stop: “The place is the same, but we have changed.” If I could encapsulate the retreat in one sentence, I feel as though this would be it.
There’s so much joy that comes through connecting with others in this kind of space and environment. We so often get caught up in our own bubbles that when we venture outside of it, even for just a week, it serves as a reminder of what we need more of. The simplicity of sharing a meal, of passing around plates of food, of walking alongside someone and getting a window into their world. Nefeli Nine was a re-introduction into the art of reconnecting—both with nature and with others. Whether through a friendly ‘Yiasas’ with a local or sharing stories from our lives in the ‘real world,’ it truly felt like our own little community for the week.
How am I supposed to go back to Athens after all of this? I continuously wondered. The environment and the experiences that coincided alongside it were so wonderfully curated and so well thought out that it was honestly hard to leave. It’s not only a testament to Steph and the vision she has created, but also to the team she has chosen. With Elias giving us constant belly laughs and Eirini always bringing her beautiful, powerful energy to every practice, I couldn’t imagine the experience without them.
She echoed this sentiment to me on our final morning, when I had the chance to sit down with her.
“I wanted something that felt a bit more family-style. That felt a bit safer for people. It was a combination of love for being outdoors, of wanting to do something a bit different, and a need to bring people together.”
When I asked how she wanted guests to feel, she repeated a word that had become synonymous with my own experience throughout the week.
Safe.
“Safe is number one,” she tells me.
“Safe enough to be themselves, safe enough if they don’t want to take part in something to tell me. And to just feel comfortable enough to do what they want to do. To be silly with us, to dance around the table. I want people to feel like they’re with friends and there is no pressure.”
So if you are feeling like you need a pause and a reason to explore a different side of Greece,
I genuinely could not recommend Nefeli Nine enough. It could very well be the seven days you need to make a much-needed shift and reset, as I came to discover.
