XpatAthens

XpatAthens

Girl Gone Greek is Rebecca Hall's debut novel. A semi-fictional account of life in Greece, here's what you can expect:

Ever wondered what awaits those real-life Shirley Valentines who leave a life of expected conventionality and comfort for the unknown of a foreign land with a different language, very different habits and a squiggly alphabet?

Rebecca A. Hall’s debut novel “Girl Gone Greek” will give you some of the answers – from the point of view of Rachel, a young English woman who escapes familial judgement and the accepted mores of her homeland to become the newest English teacher in a Greek village. Without nothing more than a sprinkling of Greek words to get her by. And in the midst of the worst economic crisis the country has seen for decades.

What Rachel discovers after arriving in the grimy capital and taking the bus out to the Peloponnesian village confirms some of her expectations, but defies most. Peopled with colourful characters, almost incredible but somehow entirely believable for anyone who’s ever had any contact with ‘real’ Greek society, Rachel’s tale is one of love for the country she discovers tinged with frustrations and confusions of the culture clash that awaits her.

The story is written in an easy, familiar style that had me nodding in recognition and chuckling in sympathy throughout. It’s like being told the tale by a good friend over a week of afternoons featuring delicious, sweet baklava and strong treacly cups of Greek coffee.

To read more, please visit: She Means Well But...

Girl Gone Greek
is available in paperback and Kindle format from Amazon.co.uk and Amazon.com.

Read more about Rebecca on Life Beyond Borders.

The official launch of Girl Gone Greek was held at The Athens Centre on September 30th 2015. To see a photo album of the evening please click HERE. To see a video of the presentation, please click HERE.
Thursday, 30 July 2020 07:00

The 10 Oldest Houses In Athens

The oldest houses in the city of Athens date back to the 17th century and tell us wonderful stories with great protagonists.

Do you know when the oldest house of modern Athens was built and who lived there? Have you heard about the person who designed half of Athens' neoclassical buildings? Do you know where he lived? The answers that follow may surprise you!   

 
 1. The Benizelos Mansion
 
The oldest surviving house of Athens is located in Plaka, 96 Adrianou Street, and belonged to the aristocratic family of the Athenian archon Angelos Benizelos - whose daughter would later become known as St. Filothei. The house dates back to the 16th century, but most of what we see today is from the late 17th and early 18th century. A characteristic example of it’s Ottoman architecture, with loggia, patio and well, the house has been restored in recent years and has become a museum.

benizelou

2. The  Logothetis Mansion
 
Located in Plaka at 14B Areos Street and built in the 17th century, the Logothetis mansion only has the gate, the fountain and a small section of the yard in tact. It was the villa of the British consul Logothetis and his family that hosted Thomas Elgin when he visited Athens. Before the Parthenon Sculptures where sent to Britain, they spent their last nights in this mansion.

Logothetis mansion in Plaka

3. The George Church Tower
 
On the corner of School Street and Epicharmou, this three-storey tower with fortification that distinguishes it from all the buildings of Plaka is one of the few Ottoman buildings that survived to this day. Built in the 18th century, it was used as a post by the Ottomans before being sold to a Scottish historian and philhellene George Finley in 1835. Here stayed Finley’s comrade, Richard Church, Irish General, which gave the building the name "Tower of Church". With another name, 'House Dialisma,' the historic house became famous again in 1928, as a matter of the famous Tsarouchis painting.

Tower of Church

4. The Residence of Ernst Ziller
 
You have probably walked passed it countless times without giving it a second look. The impressive neoclassical located at 22 Mavromichali street was designed for himself in 1882-85. It stands out for both it’s two clay Herms, which Ziller designed, and the decorated openings of the upper floor. The building was partially destroyed by a fire in 1977 (when it belonged to the National Opera and was used as a dressing room) and later plundered by burglars, who were arrested. It is currently being renovated slowly but steadily, to become an annex to the Byzantine and Christian Museum.

Ernst Ziller

5. Kleanthis-Schaubert Residence
 
Also known as the Old University, the amazing building that now houses the Museum of History of the University of Athens on Tholos Street in Plaka was once the home of the architects Stamatis Kleanthis and Edward Schaubert. The two architects who built the first city plan of the newly formed capital of the Greek state restored the home "from the Ottoman ruins" in 1831 and stayed there until 1837. The previous history of the house is not known -the only thing we know is that the two bought the dilapidated building from the Turkish Sante Khanum, while the prevailing view regarding it’s date is the 17th century, perhaps even earlier. Kleanthis and Schaubert rented the house to the Greek government in 1837 to house the first Greek university, who worked there until 1842.

Kleanthis

6. Kyriakoulis Mavromichalis Mansion

The beautiful three-storey neoclassical house on the corner of Amalia and Xenofontos now houses the offices of the European Parliament in Greece. It was built in 1870 with plans by Theofilos Hansen, architect of the Academy and the Library. It originally belonged to Kyriakoulis Mavromichalis,  grandson of the eponymous hero of the Revolution and Prime Minister of Greece in 1909-1910. It housed the Russian Embassy in 1876-79 and it was here that the ambassador Savourof organized legendary balls, which exceeded luxury like no other in the city. The gossip of the time was that Savourof cost as much as all the Ambassadors together. The Russian Ambassador had four carriages and many horses and dogs in the garden of the Palace, which he donated to the Athenians when he left to take up his new duties in Berlin.

Mavromichali

7. Anton Prokesch Von Osten Mansion
 
Located on Feidiou Street is the residence of the Austrian ambassador, which Hans Christian Andersen in 1841 describes as isolated at the edge of town overlooking the wide desert and high mountains. It was one of the first mansions that was built in Athens in the period 1836-1837. Later he housed the Greek Conservatory of Manolis Kalomiri. Today it belongs to the Ministry of Culture, abandoned and collapsing day by day.

Anton Prokesch

8. Ilision Mansion
 
The complex currently houses the Byzantine and Christian Museum (Sofias 22) and was designed by Stamatis Kleanthis. It was  constructed in the period 1840-1848 out of the city near the banks of the river Ilissos. It was the residence of the aristocrat Sophia de Barmoua Lempren, also known as Duchess of Plakentias.

9. Stathatos Mansion
 
On the corner of Vasilissis Sofias and Herodotus, the current Museum of Cycladic Art is one of the finest buildings in the city. It was designed by Ernst Ziller and built in 1895 as a residence and headquarters of Ithaca’s shipowner and merchant carbon Otto Stathatos. It was donated by the descendants of the Greek government and subsequently housed the Bulgarian embassy, officers club of Britain (which they dictated in 1945), the Canadian embassy in 1970, and the embassy of Libya. In 1982 it was bought by the Public Real Estate Corporation and in 1991, it was donated to the Goulandris Foundation to house the new wing of the Museum of Cycladic Art.

Stathatou Mansion

10. Dekozis-Vouros Residence
 
The beautiful building on Paparrigopoulou street now houses the Museum of the City of Athens and the café of the Black Duck. It was one of the first houses which was built in liberated Athens in 1833. It was designed by German architects G. Luders and J. Hoffer and it’s one of the first examples of austere classicism in Greece. The house belonged to Chian banker Stamatis Dekozis Vouros (1792-1881) and hosted Otto and Amalia from 1837 until 1843, expecting to complete their palaces -the current parliament.

Dekozis Vouros House

Originally posted in Greek on In2Life
Translated by Codico Lab
If summer had a flavor, it would certainly be that of ice cream! With so many ice cream shops and different flavors out there, it's hard to choose where to find the best! Whether you prefer classic chocolate or a more experimental flavor like handmade mustard, here's a list of where you can find the top ice cream spots in Athens to suit everyone's flavor of choice!

 

Le Greche

le greche
@le_greche
 
Located 2 minutes away from Syntagma Square, Le Greche serves delicious gelato and a variety of ice cream sandwiches. Owned by a Greek trained in Bologna, this gelato shop emphasizes quality raw ingredients and is the perfect place to enjoy a delicious ice cream along with a cup of authentic Italian coffee. 

Where:
16 Mitropoleos, Syntagma
Must-Try: Ricotta-bergamot or the sensational chocolate with plums and rum

Gellissimo Biscoto

gellissimo biscoto
@gellissimobiscoto

Once a sensation in Thessaloniki, Gellissimo Biscoto has quickly become a staple in Athens since arriving less than a year ago. Famous for their iconic pistachio lava and melt-in-your-mouth pralines, they offer an array of handmade treats including ice cream, waffles, crepes, and pancakes, all crafted from pure ingredients with exceptional care.
 
Where: Astiggos 11, Athens
Must-Try: The famous Pistacchio Lava


Chara

chara
@calli.nicol
 
Open since 1969, this retro patisserie and ice cream parlor on Patission Street is one of Athens' most historic pastry shops. Find a table on the pavement, order a voluptuous ice cream sundae and get ready for some serious nostalgic vibes. 
Where: 339 Patission, Athens
Must-Try: The delicious ekmek, an Athenian legend, or the excellent 'Chicago.'

Mucca 

mucca
@mucca_gelateria

If you're looking for a genuine gelateria offering ice creams in all kinds of flavors, from all-time classic chocolate to playful bubble gum, this is your go-to shop! The ice cream is served in a handmade cone, cup, or biscuit and you will also enjoy original Italian espresso or cappuccino, a choice in brioche and crepes and waffles.

Where:
 146 Charilaou Trikoupi, Nea Erythraia
Must-Try: The Kinder Bueno

Zuccherino 

zuccherino
@zuccherino.gr
 
This dessert heaven in Monastiraki offers a wide range of unique ice cream flavors, from watermelon and Ferrero to banoffee and cookies, even profiterole!  With its generous portion sizes, it’s one of the best ice cream spots in Athens for a reason and will surely not disappoint you!

Where:
80 Mitropoleos, Monastiraki
Must-Try: 
Death by Chocolate

Bufala Gelato 

bufala gelato
@bufalagelato

When you hear premium ice cream, Bufala Gelato immediately springs to mind, and justifiably so! The flavors are endless from choco caramel crunch to limoncello and cheesecake, including vegan and high-protein options. Not to mention you can enjoy your scoop in a freshly baked fluffy waffle sprinkled with Belgian chocolate drops. Such a guilty pleasure! 

Where: Artemidos 1, Glifada
Must-Try:
Black coconut ice cream
 
 
Thursday, 20 October 2016 07:00

Lesvos - The Aegean Symphony

The island of Lesvos has showed the world the meaning of compassion and selflessness.
 
Watch and share the new video which captures the true values of its people and the characteristics of an island that has become an international symbol of humanity. Lesvos, the “Aegean symphony”, as the video portrays, a musical masterpiece of nature’s elements that invites you to a unique holiday experience. #DiscoverGreece

Have you ever known a place that speaks to you?
Well, surrender to the feeling. And a melody rises up around you.
The elements begin to stir, to fall into place, to find their voice,
The land. The wind. Nature. The water.
All share a single tempo; a reason to be heard.
Even the stones command a presence.
Enchanting you,
A noble and sacred serenade that inspires you to greater heights,
Almost without knowing, you’re captivated by the rhythm;
A dance shared with others, yet somehow still your very own,
And just when you think silence has descended…
Don’t be misled. Open up to the secret whispers of a music,
The notes of an ancient harmony,
A perfect blend,
That brings all the senses together as one.
This is Lesvos. The Aegean Symphony.

For more information on Lesvos, please visit: Discover Greece



 
Friday, 15 November 2019 11:16

Boutari Winery S.A.

Boutari Winery is one of the greatest and most historical companies of quality wine making. Since its establishment in 1879, the company has set the foundations for the production of quality bottled wine, it has contributed to the revival and development of indigenous grape varieties and it continuously invests in innovative products and services. Its presence in 35 countries, as well as the numerous distinctions it has received until today, render the company a worthy ambassador of quality bottled winemaking in Greece and abroad.

The company has been honored with the award Winery of the Year for the 18th time by one of the most important publications in the wine sector worldwide, the American magazine Wine & Spirits. This distinction ranks Boutari Winery in the Hall of Fame’s top six wineries in the world.

The company has been active in the regions: Naoussa, Goumenissa, Mantinia, Santorini, Crete while in Attica collaborates with Roxane Matsa Estate since 1980 in the region of Kantza.

CLICK HERE to learn more about wine tastings
and experiences hosted by Boutari Winery.


SANTORINI WINERY
Megalochori, A.C. 84700 Santorini
Tel: +3022860 81011, 81607
Email: santorini.winery@boutari.gr


Opening Hours
:
Monday-Friday 10:00-15:00 (Winter Season)
Monday-Saturday 10:00-19:00 (Summer Season) 

CRETE WINERY
Skalani, A.C 70100 
Tel: +30 2810 731617
Email: crete.winery@boutari.gr 

Opening Hours:
Tuesday-Sunday 10:00-18:00 (From April to October)
By appointment at crete.winery@boutari.gr (From November to March)

 

NAOUSSA WINERY
Boutari Winery, Stenimachos, Naoussa
Tel: +30 23320 41666

Opening Hours:
Monday - Friday 09:00 – 15:00 by appointment
Weekends by appointment 

Monday, 23 August 2021 07:00

Melitzanosalata: Greek-Style Eggplant Dip

Every decent taverna in Greece has a category on their menu called alifes or spreads in English. It usually includes popular choices such as tzatziki, skordalia, taramosalata, tyrokafteri, melitzanosalata, and more. These dishes serve either as mezes, to be paired with a variety of other small plates for the main meal, or as dips, which we normally order as an appetizer to start the meal.

Here's an easy-to-make and really versatile recipe for melitzanosalata that pairs great with a variety of dishes, from fish to pasta and even more!

Ingredients

5 medium eggplants 
3 spring onions, finely chopped 
1 garlic clove, minced 
60 ml lemon juice 
2 tbsp chopped celery stalk 
2 tbsp chopped fresh mint 
2 tbsp chopped parsley 
1 tbsp Greek yogurt 
1 tbsp red bell pepper, diced 
1 tbsp green bell pepper, diced 
2 tbsp chopped green olives 
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil + extra to serve 
1 tsp ground cumin 
Salt 
Freshly ground black pepper

Cooking Instructions
  • Wash the eggplants and pat dry. Pierce them with a fork all over and place them on a baking tray on the top shelf. Broil for 30 minutes, then flip them and broil them for another 20 minutes, until they go very soft and the skin turns wrinkly and charred.
  • Remove from the oven and allow them to cool for 15-30 minutes. Once cooled down and easy to hold, carefully scoop out the softened eggplant from the charred skin using a spoon and discard most of the seeds.
  • Place on a colander, add salt, and allow the insides to strain for at least 10-15 minutes. Gently press them with your hands to remove any excess water and finely chop them or pulse them using a food processor.
  • Place the eggplant into a bowl and add in the chopped scallions and garlic, the peppers, the olives, the yogurt, and the herbs. Mix well. Gradually add in the olive oil, and then add the lemon juice, cumin, some pepper and adjust the salt if necessary. Mix well with a spoon. Transfer into a bowl, drizzle with some extra olive oil and serve.
Tip 1: Roast the eggplant until its skin is charred, in order to give the dip its smoky flavor.

Tip 2:
 Let the eggplant strain well before you blitz it.

For more tips and details, please visit: culinarybackstreets.com
On Friday, January 5th, Prime Minister Kyriakos Mitsotakis proudly inaugurated the meticulously restored Royal Palace of Philip II in Aigai, with guidance from the esteemed Honorary Keeper of Greek Antiquities, Angeliki Kottaridis.

Central to this historic site is the palace itself, boasting an impressive expanse of approximately 15,000 sq. m. It stands as the largest building from classical Greece, a testament to opulence in materials, execution precision, technological innovation, and geometric purity. These elements collectively create an unparalleled sense of calmness, elegance, and harmony, where every detail submits to the allure of proportion.

Construction of this architectural marvel began in the mid-4th century, concluding in 336 BC when the grandeur of the palace witnessed the tragic assassination of Philip II in the nearby theater. Within the grand peristyle of the palace, Alexander III was proclaimed the king of the Macedonians, embarking on a transformative journey that would alter the course of history.

Unfortunately, the palace met its demise in the mid-2nd century BC, following the conclusive Roman overthrow led by Metellus in 148 BC. The remnants, concealed by centuries of stone-cutting, were unveiled through excavations commencing in 1865 and persisting into the 20th century, particularly during the 1930s and the 1950s and 1960s.

The peristyle of the Aigai Palace, distinguished by 16 doric columns on each side, represents an architectural marvel that epitomizes the concept of the square—a first of its kind. Encompassing 4,000 sq. m., it could accommodate a crowd of at least 8,000, serving as a communal gathering spot for Macedonians. This gathering place would later evolve into a symbolic courtyard, with the term "courtyard" becoming synonymous with royalty.

The monumental task of maintenance, repair, and restoration was executed by the capable Ephorate of Antiquities of Imathia, under its diligent supervision. Spanning from 2007 to 2023, this co-financed project, supported by successive European programs, carried a total budget of 20.300.000 euros.

The project extended beyond the monument itself, encompassing an area of approximately 25,000 sq. m. Rediscovery, excavation, and meticulous documentation of the site's remains, along with the systematic recording of countless mobile finds and stone architectural elements, were integral to the restoration process. The aesthetic restoration of mosaics and marble inlays (covering around 1,400 sq. m.), foundation repairs, colonnade restoration, and the intricate work of supporting the monument's slope were all part of the monumental undertaking.

At the helm of this ambitious endeavor in all its phases was Dr. Angeliki Kottaridis, an esteemed archaeologist. The final phase received oversight from a team of experts, including Olympia Felekidou (civil engineer-restorer), Kiki Kyrittopoulou (architect), Eva Kontogoulidou (archaeologist), Costas Tzimboulas (antiquities conservator), and George Konstantinopoulos (craftsman).

This restoration stands as a testament to the dedication of those involved, breathing new life into a timeless piece of history for generations to come.

Originally published in Greek on: lifo.gr
Translated by Codico Lab
Ancient Greece typically comes to mind as a beacon of intellectual achievement, democracy, and high culture. For centuries, it has inspired countless books, movies, and political philosophies. Yet, if we take a closer look at the reality of Ancient Greece, we will see that it was far more complex—and often much less ideal—than we’d like to believe.

Yes, Ancient Greece laid the groundwork for many modern concepts, but day-to-day life at the time was shaped by its own contradictions—exclusive politics, rigid gender roles, and philosophical ideas that wouldn’t necessarily align with many of the values of today.

This article explores some of the things about Ancient Greece that over time have been clouded by oversimplification, and romanticization with an intention to shed light on the importance of context, and seeing reality from its many perspectives.

1. Democracy: More Exclusive than Inclusive

One of the most common misunderstandings is the notion that Athens, often called the birthplace of democracy, was a shining example of "rule by the people." While it’s true that Athens developed the earliest form of democratic governance, this system was far from inclusive.

The idea that everyone in Athens could vote is far from the truth. In reality, only male citizens—about 10-20% of the population—were allowed to participate. Women, slaves, and foreigners were excluded from the political process. Athenians took their civic duty seriously, but democracy as they practiced it was a privilege enjoyed by a small minority. Even among men, participation required wealth, time, and education, leaving many citizens at a disadvantage.

This narrow version of democracy might surprise modern advocates of equality and representation. It reminds us that while Athens planted the seeds of democratic governance, it was quite different from the inclusive model we think of today.

2. Gender Roles: The Myth of the 'Progressive' Greek Woman

In modern portrayals, particularly in pop culture, Greek women are often depicted as powerful figures, standing shoulder-to-shoulder with men. However, the reality of their lives was far more restricted.
 
In most Greek city-states, women were expected to live highly sheltered lives. Their primary roles were within the household, where they were responsible for child-rearing and managing the domestic sphere. Athenian women were even barred from owning property independently or appearing in court without a male representative. Marriage, often arranged, marked their transition from being under their father’s authority to that of their husband.

Sparta, often depicted as an outlier, allowed women more freedom, especially in terms of physical training and property rights. However, even Spartan women were largely excluded from the political sphere. The idea of Greek woman being “liberated” was not ancient reality.

3. Philosophy: The Dark Side of the Thinkers

Names like Socrates, Plato, and Aristotle are synonymous with the birth of Western philosophy. We often imagine Ancient Greece as a golden age of intellectual freedom, yet the reality was far more complicated.

The philosophical achievements of these thinkers came at a time when critical thinking could be dangerous. Socrates, for instance, was sentenced to death by his fellow Athenians for "corrupting the youth" and impiety. His method of questioning authority and established norms was seen as a threat to the state. Meanwhile, Aristotle’s philosophy, which influenced Western thought for centuries, promoted views that we’d find troubling today. He argued that some people were “natural slaves,” thus justifying slavery as a natural and necessary part of society. He also believed women were biologically inferior to men—a perspective that was widely accepted in Greek culture at the time.

While Ancient Greek philosophy laid the groundwork for critical thinking and ethical debates, it was also deeply intertwined with the societal prejudices of its time.

4. Art and Architecture: Not All as Pure as Marble

The image of Ancient Greece is often one of stark white marble sculptures and temples, which over time created notions of purity and perfection. However, at the time of their creation, Greek temples, statues, and buildings were vibrantly painted in bright colors. Over time, these pigments faded, leaving the pristine white marble we’re familiar with today.

In fact, the Ancient Greeks adored color. Archaeologists have discovered traces of red, blue, and gold on many ancient statues and temples. The Parthenon, the enduring symbol of classical architecture, was once decorated with bright murals and ornaments.

5. Greek Mythology: Not Just Epic Heroes & Gods

Greek mythology is a treasure trove of epic battles, powerful gods, and heroic quests. Today, we often focus on figures like Zeus, Athena, and Hercules, celebrating how strong and cunning they were. Yet, these myths were more than just entertainment for the Greeks—they were a way to explain the chaotic and often brutal realities of their world.

The gods of Olympus were not benevolent figures—they were capricious, vengeful, and often unjust. Zeus, the king of the gods, frequently abused his power, and many myths revolve around the tragic consequences of the gods’ whims. Take the story of Prometheus, who was punished for giving fire to humanity, or the tale of Icarus, whose wings melted when he flew too close to the sun. These stories remind us that the Greeks didn’t view their gods as moral role models, but rather as forces to be feared.

Additionally, the lives of many mythological figures, such as women like Medea and Pandora, reflect the misogyny of the time, portraying them as destructive or foolish. These stories were not just allegories—they were reflections of the Greek worldview at the time.

Ancient Greece Within Context

While Ancient Greece has gifted the world with extraordinary ideas and innovations, it's important to remember that these were ancient times, far removed from the standards and ideals we hold today. In many ways, the Greeks were progressive for their era, pioneering democracy, philosophy, and art that have had a lasting influence on Western civilization. However, we should acknowledge their achievements without ignoring the complexities and limitations of society at that time. By acknowledging both the progress and the imperfections, we gain a more nuanced understanding of reality.
Thursday, 05 February 2015 14:49

'Bucket List' Of Things To Love About Greece

This week, I'm happy to share the spotlight with Rebecca Hall, a member of our Xpat community and the author of the 'Leaving Cairo' blog... Rebecca shares her 'bucket list' of things to love about Greece - does it match yours? Hope you enjoy...

7 Things to Love About Greece and Greeks

Someone was talking about a Bucket List at work the other day. "Leaving Cairo..." got to thinking about lists...shopping lists, mail lists, etc etc. I decided to make this list and share it with you here: why I love Greece and the Greeks. Most of it will be a summary or repetition of posts I've shared before, but no harm in reminding everyone and summarising here, especially in these times.

 1) Because half an hour from the centre of Athens (by public transport), I can be here:

Southern Beaches Sunset - Athens

 

 

 

 

 

2) Because if I have some time, I can rock up at Piraeus and be here:

Island of Poros - about 1hr from Athens by ferry

 

 

 

 

3) Because even though I live in the centre of a big city, when I leave my place in the morning, I am offered a "Kali Mera!" ("Good Morning!") from at least 4 people - be it the man in the electrical shop next to the apartment block I live in, the flower seller at the end of the street or a complete stranger walking 2 very old pug dogs.

4) Because people join in on the trolley buses and get involved if there's a 'problem.' Of course, this can become a problem in itself sometimes as it'd be nice if people could sometimes mind their own business - but mostly it's the older people that get involved and I feel a little bit safer, knowing there are older people around me who aren't so afraid to speak up (how long will THAT last?).

5) Because mostly, a Greek is honest with you.

This can range from: "There's cappuccino froth on your nose" to "How the hell did you get that job, you incompetent a***. My grandmother could do a better job, and she's dead."

They are at least STRAIGHT with you.

6) On that subject: Because Greeks have lovely sayings.

My favourite is "A dog licks its balls because it can" to "Agappy mou!" (meaning "My love!" but it must be said in a high pitched voice and accompanied by lots of air kissing, even if you're male. It sounds lovely, particularly when said to a young child or pet. Go on, try it).

7) Because once you're accepted into Greek society - that's it...you've made friends for life, and I mean REAL friends. I had dropped in to see 2 friends the other night and they made dinner (another one to like: you can just drop by and you'll be given dinner, raki, ouzo and not leave till about 2am, be warned) and our conversation inevitably lead to "The Crisis." I was told in no uncertain terms that they 'had my back' if I EVER had ANY problems. He can kill chickens and pluck them and also cook, a real 'hunter gatherer' so if it comes to it - we'll be OK for a while.

 

I should stress the chicken made for dinner the night in question was actually bought from an Athenian supermarket...but it's reassuring to know there are still 'real men' out there.

8) Just thought of another one: Greeks know how to drink alcohol in a civilized fashion.

No, you will NOT see your 'average' teen or person in their 20's rolling around drunk in the street, spoiling for a fight and thinking it's hilariously funny. The number of times I've been asked by Greek friends "Why do some people need alcohol like this in order to have a good time? Life is for LIVING! Why do they spoil it?!"

Hmmmm - I have no reply (not being a huge drinker like that, and never having had been).

9) The FOOD ("fageto")!!

I had never really eaten until I came to Greece. Well, clearly I had, otherwise I'd be dead, but I mean EATEN. And I eat LOADS and the weight seems to come off me - go figure! It's because the quality is so good. My favourite: Spinach salad with pomegranate seeds, chicken masticato (a chicken dish made with a thick, creamy mastic sauce on a nest of stringy pastry) and of course, gyros.

At least the fast food is sort of healthy. Hell, their fast food chain "Goodys" has a massive salad counter. If you're here, go and experience Greek fast food.

Of course, Greece and Greeks are also frustrating, but I want to concentrate on the positives for now (for obvious reasons). One final note: Greeks have been through hell before and survived...don't underestimate them.

Rebecca Hall
www.leavingcairo.blogspot.com

Until next week,

Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

 

Tuesday, 17 February 2015 13:13

Culture + Cool

Those of you who know the Thiseio neighbourhood may have wondered lately what happened to the old Stavlos bar at the top end of Iraklidon street. It had been a neighborhood staple for years, but lately lost some of its popularity – and over the past months was closed down completely. The space has since been completely gutted and transformed into a wide-open, airy, multi-function space called Root Artspace.

I went by accident on Sunday afternoon – the open door and warm noise coming out of the small door made me wonder what was going on inside… There was plenty going on!

The original building dates from 1845 when it housed the horse stables of King Otto. It later became a prison, and then a school, until the late 1980’s when it as transformed into the well-loved Stavlos bar. (This seems to be a not-so-unusual story for some of Greece’s historic properties – don’t they all become a bar at some point??)

On my unplanned Sunday visit, the place was buzzing with activity.  A few questions to the barista got me some interesting answers about the Root Artspace concept.

This place has a grand vision. The venue will host performances, exhibitions and festivals. The restaurant offers up an urban street food menu based around organic and ‘paleo’ principals.  The bar – called a ‘wellness bar’ – offers a range of healthy cocktails, some even sugar-free and gluten-free. And there is an actual record store (of the vinyl type) inside the space. The day I went they had a live band playing jazzy/blues music. And the service was very friendly (warm smiles and thank-yous all around).

This is seriously forward-looking stuff for Athens.

I have to say that this may be my new favourite place. The multi-room space itself is more than cool – it’s incredible. The menu and drink list is unique in the city. The music is eclectic. Good service, great vibe. With enough creativity to make it seriously interesting. And enough ‘urban attitude’ to make it very Athenian indeed.

Root Artspace
Iraklidon 10, Thiseio
+30 210 345 0003
www.rootartspace.gr

Until next week,

Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

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