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Athens: Mother Of All Cities
It's always interesting to hear what other people think of Athens, especially those who aren't from here or those who have been here only a short time. The truth is that perspective is everything, and other points of view often give us the best perspective on our own lives.
So it was with great interest that I picked up a copy of the in-flight magazine of Swiss airways on a recent work trip. The headline: 'Athens: Mother of all cities’
Clearly these articles are written to entice travellers to visit this lucrative Swiss airways destination. They are marketing pieces. But what exactly would a Swiss author see as enticing about Athens?
I'm going to re-write a few key phrases from the piece here - and hope that this isn’t breaking any laws! The full article can be seen linked below...
According to Swiss, ‘The Athenians virtually invented urban life, and we can still learn from them today’. They say that Athens remains a model of urbanity. Because the ‘warm climate and the friendliness of the locals make make Athens a place where life spills out of the homes, shops and thousands of bars and restaurants and onto the streets, however narrow they may be. Because it’s a city that buzzes almost around the clock. And because a new generation has taken the recent crises as a chance to reaffirm, with almost Olympian zeal, the great Greek triumphs of the past: hospitality, culinary variety, strong coffee and fine wine!’
They mention the places that we all know – Plaka, Psirri, National Gardens, rooftop restaurants, bars, and obviously the acropolis.
In an interview with Ted Lelekas (telegourmet.org), he answers the question ‘Why Athens?’ His answer: The nightlife. The sensuality. The friendliness. The wine.
I'd say they pretty much 'got it'. Athens is all of that, and it’s not just ‘marketing puff’ to say so.
Until next week,
Jack
Swiss Magazine (Athens, November 2014):
http://www.swiss.com/CMSContent/web/SiteCollectionDocuments/SWISS-Magazine/2014/SWISS-Magazine-November.pdf
Interview with Ted Lelekas: http://www.swiss.com/CMSContent/web/SiteCollectionDocuments/SWISS-Magazine/2014/SWISS-Magazine-November-Talk.pdf
Check out the Swiss City Guide for Athens here: http://www.swiss.com/CMSContent/web/SiteCollectionDocuments/SWISS-Magazine/2014/SWISS-Magazine-November-City-Guide.pdf
In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…
Days And Nights In Psirri
There is truth to the idea that we often miss that which is right in front of us. How many times do we walk by the same shops every day, only to notice 2 years later that the one at the end of the street on the left has the one thing we’ve been looking for... I live very close to Psirri, and I enjoy going there for a bite to eat and a drink from time to time.
I feel it’s one of the defining ‘Athens centre’ districts, and has remained uniquely authentic and still somewhat off most tourist maps. So I jumped at the invitation to join a group of friends on a photography walk of Psirri. We grabbed cameras and tripods and set out to wander the little side streets of the neighbourhood on a warm but overcast Saturday afternoon.
Past the main streets of the area, the more obvious with the little tavernas and bars, we wandered onto a series of streets and alleys that are covered in graffiti – the kind of grafitti one actually enjoys and wants to photograph. Psirri is the definition of street art. It’s grungy and shabby-chic, but also completely authentic and absolutely ‘local’.
Later, we stopped for a drink – and in wintertime Psirri one must order oinomelo or it’s stronger cousin rakomelo. This is wine or raki, sweetened with honey, and served steaming hot. A greek version of glüwein? Perhaps, but rakomelo is oh-so-Psirri.
We sat at Liosporos, one of those places I pass every time I’m in Psirri, but have never been in. I loved it. Small, cute, quaint, grungy enough to be authentic and styled enough to be comfortable. Nice vibe, good music, warm rakomelo.
Even if you think you know it well, check out Psirri – wander past the main streets, get lost, be brave – and be rewarded with one of Athens coolest neighbourhoods.
If nothing else, go for the rakomelo.
Liosporos
http://psirri.gr/liosporos/en/index.html
Miaouli 24
210 331 1841
Until next week,
Jack
In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…
Chytirio
Athens has an abundance of theatre options – a fact which should not come as a surprise to anyone, given that it was invented here! From big international shows to tiny and wonderfully obscure neighbourhood productions, Athens truly has something for every taste.
Apart from the various year-round offerings around the city, one of my favourite theatre events is the annual ‘Hellenic Festival’ – also called the Athens & Epidaurus Festival (www.greekfestival.gr/en/) which happens every summer. The festival offers a great range of classical and modern theatrical masterpieces and musical performances at the stunning Herodeon and Epidaurus theatres.
But back to winter reality… I often drive or walk by a place called ‘Chytirio’, in the Gazi/Kerameikos neighborhood. It’s an unassuming little building with performance adverts posted outside. I’ve often wondered what goes on in here… So the other night I bought a couple of tickets (a steal at €8 each) to a show called ‘Aires de Argentina’ at the Chytirio.
Chytirio means ‘foundry’ – and I’d like to believe the building was once, perhaps, a foundry. It is styled as a ‘Theatre / Art Café’. In any case, the venue is rather interesting: direct entry into an outdoor garden space set-up for summer shows, a small indoor bar/café, and a small (150 person) theatre, with exposed stone walls and a ‘small space’, intimate feeling. Athenian, to be sure.
This was a musical performance more than theatre – a ‘trip around Argentina’ through music and dance. (Has anyone else noticed that Athens seems to be in love with Argentinean music and dance??) It was a very pleasant evening – nice music, relaxed and easy, like a private performance by a group of friends – complete with wine served to you during the show.
Chytirio seems to have something for everyone – music & theatre, local and not-so-local. Worth a look to see if anything catches your eye!
Muy bien!
Chytirio (Χυτήριο)
Iera Odos 44, Kerameikos
210 3412313
www.chytirio.gr (Greek only)
Until next week,
Jack
In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…
Sushi Saturday
At the tail end of a very busy January, with terrible weather and winter blahs - and in the midst of some serious political drama - Saturday arrived with sunshine, warm air and nothing to do. These are the best days - no plan, no schedule, no worries. What does one do on days when one doesn't know what to do? Why, one goes for sushi.
I sent out a Whatsapp message to a friend, and it came back with a ‘Let’s go!’, so we headed toward Syntagma and what has quickly become Athens’ staple sushi restaurant – Koi Sushi Bar.
I’ve written about Koi before. This is probably the most affordable sushi/Japanese eatery in town, with great prices and a simple menu (and as of this week, open in Kifisia!). I’ve been there quite a few times, and always leave stuffed and smiling at the number on the bill. There are some fantastic sushi restaurants in Athens – but for price and value, Koi can’t be beat. Take note: it can get very crowded, especially on weekends, so be prepared to wait. Cash only.
On the way home from the restaurant, right around the corner in fact, I walked by a little shop that I have never noticed before: Soya Athens. It turns out that Soya Athens has been around since 2005 and supplies an amazing range of authentic Japanese food products (foods, drinks, Sake, etc.) as well as tableware, kitchen utensils, etc. The shop is very cute and packed with great stuff. And they even have an online shop. The best surprise is their sushi club, where members can learn how to prepare sushi from a pro!
So Saturday turned into a ‘virtual visit’ to Japan – Arigatou gozaimasu...
Koi Sushi Bar
Nikis 15, Syntagma
210 321 1099
Soya Athens
Apollonos 33, Syntagma
210 323 6324
www.soyaathens.gr
Until next week,
Jack
In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…
Curry At The Port
After the snow (what?!) and cold temperatures of last week, it’s almost impossible to recall the sunny, balmy 18-degree days of last weekend. I had planned a fun-filled afternoon with a friend who promised to show me around Piraeus – a part of the city, I must admit, I do not frequent. Not for any particular reason, apart from not really knowing much more about Piraeus than the passenger port for trips to the islands…
We met at Piraeus station, and made our way on foot around the port area, on a long walk around the ‘peninsula’ that is Piraeus proper. The seaside walk was beautiful, and we stopped along the way at the endless strip of taverans and cafés of Akti Themistokleous for a coffee and maybe even a tsipouro or two… The seaside views and beachside walk was wonderful – and totally doable on foot over a couple of hours. We made it as far around as Marina Zeas, but called it a day since we were by then starving…
We decided to go nuts and go for Indian food. My friend has been trying to get me to her ‘local Indian’ for ages – so we went. The place is called Kebab & Curry – and it lived up to its praise. It’s an unassuming space, simple, run by an Indian family. ‘Taki’ the owner had saved us a table, and my friend had phoned ahead to arrange a fixed-price feast. This was wonderful – no need to look at the menu, no need to deliberate, just eat and enjoy! The food here is great – authentic, spiced according to your preference, and evidently quite popular. There was even a delivery bike outside for lucky Piraeus locals.
All in all a nice afternoon in an under-rated part of the city. Next time we will walk the opposite way around and stop in Mikrolimano and the endless fish tavernas – a popular city highlight for locals and visitors alike!
Kebab & Curry
Skouze 14, Piraeus
210 428 5937
Until next week,
Jack
In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…
Balcony Life In Athens
On the subject of washing, some people extend their washing machines onto it - others drag their living room furniture out there in the summer, turning it inwards to watch TV from the balcony... often Cd's can be found dangling off the (almost always) green awning that serves as both a cover from the sun and a cover from prying eyes (no "Friends" spying on you from their balcony across the way!), in order to reflect the sun and scare away the ever present pigeons.
Breakfast and dinner is often served out there - in fact, as mentioned: it is a real extension of the home. It helps if you've a big area and are not facing the main road, but even then it's great to utilise your balcony. Unless you live on the ground floor or in the basement, rarely does an Athenian home not have a balcony.
And if your even 'luckier,' like my friend, you can witness and hear everyday life going on around you - but maybe I draw the line at semi naked fat old Greek men in y-fronts, the Greek version of Ugly Naked Guy!
By Bex
lifebeyondbordersblog.com
Greek Easter In Pelio
Pelio is actually the mountain range in the southeastern part of Greece’s Thessalia region, easily reachable by car, a few hours drive from Athens via Volos. This is an area of beautiful mountain drives, hiking trails, springs and waterfalls, beaches and even ski hills in winter. Google tells me there are 24 villages nestled across the region, with beautiful traditional homes and mansions, many of which have been turned into hotels and inns. This is the place to go for long mountain drives, dramatic scenery and lovely beaches.
We stayed in the village of Milies, in a stone-built inn overlooking a deep valley – more or less centrally located for easy driving access to the region. For Easter we had booked lunch at a place called Lagou Raxi. This is a very nice ‘country hotel’, newly built on a mountain-top in the village of Lafkos in South Pelio, with seriously stunning views down to the sea. Lagou Raxi is a beautiful spacious property, with a fantastic swimming pool, nicely decorated and delicious food in the restaurant. The owners, Sue and Christian, are fellow expats who have made Lafkos their home and have clearly poured their hearts into this unique property. In fact, Sue and Christian become your hosts during your stay here, and make you feel right at home. But this is much more than just a hotel – they also offer scheduled activities throughout the year, from yoga to painting to hiking. Not hard to get used to this…
One thing is for sure – I will add Pelio to my ever-growing list of must-see places in Greece.
Until next week,
A Weekend Outside Of Athens
I wasn’t sure where to go, but I did know that I wanted to spend a relaxing few days with nothing to do but chill out on a beach – no site-seeing, no roadtrips, no late night parties, nothing but sea and sand. So, after a scan of Groupon for a hotel deal, and with my young nephew in tow, we headed for Euboia to a place called ‘Nea Styra.’ Never heard of it? Neither had I.
Evia is the second largest Greek island after Crete. Most people know it if you say ‘Xalkida’, the well-known city for day-trippers from Athens. Evia is a large island, with lots of off-the-beaten-track spots for sleeping and swimming. Nea Styra is a little coastal town along the southwestern coastline, a stone’s throw from the mainland.
We made the quick drive to Agia Marina, a tiny mainland port towards Marathon, and boarded the ferry for the 45 minute trip across the bay. Ferry tickets were €4 per adult and €16 for the car. Once on the other side, you find yourself in a seaside town, where the main activity is, clearly, ‘relaxing’. Nea Styra is a family-oriented town, with a seaside strip of lovely beaches, cafes, tavernas and a very relaxed, ‘low-glam’ feeling. This is a place to wake up, step outside onto the sand, and pretty much do nothing all day… And, evidently, this place is no secret to Athenians, since there are numerous ferries all day long, and the place was buzzing with weekend visitors.
If the ‘do nothing’ plan isn’t enough for you, I was told that there are ancient megalithic structures nearby, dated to around 4,500 years old, called Drakospita (Dragon Houses). Maybe worth a visit. But I wouldn’t know!
So, the weekend passed by with feet in the sand, throwing rocks in the water with my nephew. Nothing special. And totally special.
One of these weekends, I encourage you to jump in the car, point to a random place on the map (preferably along the coast) and just ‘go’. You can thank me later.
Until next week,
Jack
Athens Typology City Guide
The Athenian Riviera And Some Great Hotel Picks
- Divani Apollon
- The Margi
- Astir Palace
- Westin Athens
- Grand Resort Lagonissi
- Grecotel Cape Sounion
To be sure, these are not cheap places. Group rates for September start in the high-100's per night - and go up quite quickly to the 300€+ range. But for a business conference, these are more-or-less in line with other European capitals for business conference rates.
In the end we chose The Margi - it combines the gorgeous style and service of a boutique hotel, with the modern meeting room facilities we need, a kitchen run by a well-known (and skilled!) chef, and a brand-new extra-large luxe swimming pool. They also run The Margi Farm, an organic farm where they grow much of the food served in the restaurant. The Margi is not directly on a beach, but you can reach Astir Beach on foot within literally 3 minutes.
If you're looking for a gem of a hotel along the Riviera, The Margi is it. Just forget about mid-September 2017 - we reserved the whole place.
Until next week,
Jack
The Margi
11 Litous Street, Vouliagmeni
www.themargi.gr
www.margifarm.gr
Divani Apollon
Agiou Nikolaou 10, Vouliagmeni
www.divaniapollonhotel.com