•  Intensive courses start in Athens every Monday. You can choose between private and group courses and you can focus the courses on your interests and needs.
• Greek online courses (private, group regular, conversation, etc.).

Petralona has an abundance of well-known, lesser-known and always easy-to-like places for food and fun. From French cuisine at Chez Lucien (Troon 32), to Thai at Andaman (Peiraios 187 & Alopis 65), to drinks at the industrial-chic Lola (Kiriadon 11), Petralona does not disappoint.

On Saturday night I went for dinner to 'The Holy Goat' (Το Θείο Τραγί). I had heard of this place, both through a friend and through a couple of different online reviews. The feedback was so great that I had to see for myself. I can happily add my confirmation that this self-styled 'punk bistro' is a truly refreshing addition to the Athens food scene. 

We arrived at 9:00pm, without a reservation, to a packed house - so we took a seat at one of the bar tables.  There was a great vibe, friendly banter, eclectic music (alt/rock, but really not too loud). The space is divided into a dining room and a bar area. For space in the dining room, book ahead. The design is modern, wooden and warm, and the vibe is casual and energized. It's a feel-good place. 

But the food. Easily some of the most interesting gourmet creations I've had in Athens. Seriously. Carefully crafted dishes that bring out a 'wow.' at every bite. Add to that a great wine list with interesting Greek selections, and super cocktail inventions - the entire menu feels 'curated' for a discerning, eclectic palate.

The price point is also a nice surprise, given the high-minded nature of the menu. Starters around €6-7, mains around €12-14.  Various wines on the list - with a single glass at €3. Imagine: orzo with sea urchin eggs, bacon, seaweed. I dare you not to like it.

Granted, you will not go here after a 3-day fast to gorge on kebabs. This is no taverna; this is decidedly gourmet. You will go here when your palate is demanding something more refined, more under-stated, more civilized. Living in Athens, those three things have become quite important to me. And as high-minded as the food is, the place itself is so very Athenian - zero attitude, relaxed and fun.

So yes, you are still in Athens. Smoking is allowed at the bar, and if you stay well past 1:00am as we did, you will enjoy an eclectic variety of second-hand smoke... So be warned.  And they do not accept credit cards. But on every other count, this could easily be a cool night out in San Francisco or Toronto.

Will definitely go back.

The Holy Goat / To Theio Tragi
Kidantidon 36, Athens (Ano Petralona)
(+30) 210 341 0296
www.facebook.com/totheiotragi.gr

Until next week,

Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

Olymbos, in the mountainous, inaccessible north, feels worlds away from anywhere. The village’s first residents were refugees from the island’s seaside towns who fled into the mountains in the 6th century to escape marauding Arab and Syrian pirates.

While their prospects for life on top of a desolate mountain might not have seemed all that promising, they found plenty of fresh spring water; steep, lush valleys for terraced farming; and a superb vantage point that allowed them to see approaching enemies.

Years passed and although the pirates faded into history, a steady stream of subsequent invaders to the island made Olymbos a continued safe haven. There was no road to Olymbos – the rest of the island remained a long, steep hike down to the shore and a boat ride away. Yet, clinging to the side of Mount Profitis Elias, the community not only thrived as an agricultural centre but at times supported the entire island. The residents herded goats, farmed wheat, barley, olives and grapes and built more than 75 windmills. At its height, the population reached nearly 1500.

Not surprisingly, Olymbos’ seclusion from the rest of the world has engendered a unique culture, and in recent times it’s been labelled a living museum. Ethnographers are entranced by a distinct dialect that continues to contain words from ancient Dorian Greek. Foodies are intrigued by the local cuisine – the bread, cheese and sweets found only here. Anthropologists are fascinated by the women’s traditional dress, with its bright embroidering and goatskin boots, and by the one-room homes that line the winding streets. And musicians come to hear the age-old songs with fifteen-syllable lines and themes of migration and survival.


To read more, please visit lonelyplanet.com

By Korina Miller