Athens in Candlelight: Great Spots To Experience Holy Week

While the well-known mass exodus from Athens for the biggest Orthodox feast of the year might lead you to think the capital would fall quiet, celebrating Easter here is a surprisingly heart-warming experience.

It’s easy enough to find places to eat and join the major celebrations, but the city also offers a bridge to the wider culture; after all, every town and island in Greece has its own way of celebrating Easter, and that diverse spirit is reflected even in the city’s hidden corners.

For those who want to slip into something more intimate and authentic, away from the usual routes, we’ve curated a handful of lesser-known spots. These are the quieter corners, gentler rituals, and neighbourhood traditions that reveal a softer, more soulful side of Athens.

The candlelit procession of the Epitaph is one of the most solemn and moving customs of Holy Week, and Athens offers countless places to experience it in all its atmospheric beauty.

For a particularly scenic and tranquil setting, head to the Holy Church of Saint Sophia on Dionysiou Areopagitou, right beneath the Acropolis, where the procession glides past marble and shadow. Another favourite is Agios Georgios Karytsi, central yet somehow forgotten, with its exceptional choir and a courtyard that turns magical after dusk. In Mets and Pangrati, the Epitaph winds through narrow residential streets lined with neoclassical houses, neighbours watching from balconies with candles in hand, creating a soft, neighbourhood warmth. Just outside the centre, the Sacred Monastery of Kaisariani offers something truly unique: the Epitaph is decorated on Good Friday morning and carried out at noon, all within a forested, monastic atmosphere perfect for those seeking stillness.

And for an even deeper dive into the city’s quieter corners, Athens hides a constellation of tiny chapels: from Agios Nikolaos Ragavas in Plaka to Agios Dimitrios Loumbardiaris on Filopappou Hill, Agios Ioannis Theologos in Psyrri, and the little stone churches tucked into Lycabettus Forest or the backstreets of Kypseli and Neos Kosmos ; each offering its own intimate, soulful way to experience Holy Week.

Pro tip: bring beeswax candles; they burn slower, smell wonderfully earthy, and locals swear their flame stays steady throughout the procession.

Between one religious service and the next, take time to wander through the city and soak up Athens’ soft spring atmosphere. Start with the Easter markets in Monastiraki Square or the bustling Varvakios Agora, where stalls overflow with tsoureki, candles, sweets and all sorts of seasonal treasures, perfect for picking up local treats and a taste of Greek Easter culture. Pedion tou Areos is another lovely stop at this time of year: ideal for a walk or a jog, and home to the Easter Village until 17 April, where you’ll find beautifully decorated lambades, Easter ornaments, books and thoughtful little gifts. If you’re craving a breath of nature, slip away to the Tatoi Estate, the former summer home of the Greek royal family, or head up to Mount Parnitha for climbing, mountain‑biking, hiking or simply a peaceful forest stroll.

And of course, all that wandering works up an appetite… so what do we eat next?

When it comes to Easter flavours, the undisputed queen is magiritsa, this comforting lamb‑and‑greens soup enriched with silky avgolemono (egg‑lemon sauce) that Greeks enjoy the moment they return from midnight mass.




But Holy Week also brings a whole world of nistisima dishes, the plant‑based and seafood‑based recipes that define the fasting period. Look out for ladera vegetables simmered in olive oil, velvety fava, oven‑baked gigantes, fragrant revithada, delicate dolmadakia, lemony horta, and all the seafood favourites: octopus, calamari, shrimp and mussels. If you’re heading out for a proper meal, the city hides a constellation of tavernas perfect for Holy Week: the candlelit simplicity of Diporto, the seafood feasts at Ouzeri Lesvos, the garden charm of Avli, the home‑style comfort of To Trigono, the local warmth of O Psaras, the bohemian courtyard of Ama Lachei, the cult seafood at Ouzeri Tou Laki, the comforting bites from Koulourades, the neighbourhood soul of To Steki Tou Ilia, and the nostalgic, vine‑covered Klimataria. Pro tip: book your table a few days ahead; Easter week fills up fast.

For dessert, nistisima treats like halva, tahini biscuits and orange‑scented cakes keep things sweet without breaking the fast. And of course, no Easter in Athens is complete without tsoureki: the irresistible, sweet, braided brioche whose aroma alone will guide you to the nearest bakery. Wake up early as bakeries are emptied by noon, and Athenians queue before opening time as part of the ritual. Each spot has its own speciality: mastic‑rich stars at Remoundos in Kypseli, the wonderfully fragrant version at Maxim in Nea Smyrni, the orange‑zest twist at Mama Psomi in Mets, the nostalgic classic at Stani in Omonia, or the beloved chocolate‑filled loaf at Lykavittos Bakery in Exarchia.