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National Gallery Highlights That Paint The Story Of Modern Greek Art
With a heady haul of iconic works from great Greek artists such as Yannis Tsarouchis, Konstantinos Parthenis, and Dominikos Theotokopoulos (better known as El Greco), chronologically organized over three gleaming floors, you’ll need hours to take it all in properly. To help you cut to the chase and make your visit more meaningful, we’ve scoured the permanent collection to share some of our favorite highlights.
Portrait of Mrs. Serpieri by Nikephoros Lytras (1869)

Credit: Thomas Gravanis
The son of a famed marble sculptor from Tinos island, Nikephoros Lytras is himself billed as “the father of modern Greek painting”. His most well-known portrait is Greece’s first royal couple, Otto and Amalia. But it’s this sumptuous, large-scale oil, immortalizing the wife of a prominent industrialist, that planted him on the radar of his peers. The globally renowned Greek artist Takis used to say that “Mrs. Serpieri was the first Greek portrait” (he greatly admired the textural qualities of her wine-colored velvet gown). Lytras’ portrait phase was characterized by a very studied style and lavish gold frames that sometimes cost more than the paintings. It was an affirmation of the affluent new society emerging in Greece who all wanted their portraits painted. As one of the pioneering members of the Munich School of Greek artists championed by King Otto, Lytras was in particularly hot demand.
Collecting the Nets by Konstantinos Volanakis (1871)

Credit: Thomas Gravanis
Greec\ce’s legendary bright light inspires endless artistic expressions. But it wasn’t always ideal when it came to the development of Impressionism in this country: no clouds to create the genre’s trademark luminosity. Konstantinos Volanakis triumphs nonetheless in this dreamy depiction of fishermen pulling the nets at sunrise. The sky is flooded with melancholy light and the rippling sea pulsates with life and variation; demonstrating Volanakis’ firm grasp of Impressionism’s primary lesson: a deep comprehension of the essence of things. This accountant-turned-artist grew into one of Greece’s most important seascape painters, known for his lyrical and atmospheric compositions of momentous naval battles and harbor scenes.
The Betrothal of the Children by Nikolaos Gyzis (1877)

Credit: Thomas Gravanis
Another leading light of the esteemed Munich School of Greek artists who studied in Bavaria, Nikolaos Gyzis opens a poignant window into life under Ottoman rule. The Turks used to take young boys from their families to raise them as Muslims (their sons would often return as young men to fight against their former villages). In a bid to escape this cruel fate, families betrothed their children from the age of 10. Here, in a typical village home, the priest places a ring on a bemused boy’s finger; while the girl appears to shy away from the priest’s entreaties. A relative kitted out in the traditional Greek fustanella kilt, likely one of the fathers, stands by to toast the union from a gourd-like vessel. Notice how remarkably this prized genre painter captures the color and texture of the utensils and fabrics: from the gleam of the copper pot to the rich sheen of the silk garments.
Exodus from Messolonghi by Theodoros Vryzakis (1878)

Credit: Thomas Gravanis
One of the most tragic and recounted episodes of the Greek fight for freedom is meticulously portrayed here by Theodoros Vryzakis (himself orphaned by the Greek War of Independence when his father was hanged by the Turks). On the night of April 10, 1826, the inhabitants of Messolonghi in Western Greece fled a year-long siege to be slain by the waiting enemy. Vryzakis unites heavenly and earthly axes to show an enthroned God in a golden cloud blessing the romanticized Greek fighters; while angels with laurel wreaths prepare to coronate the heroes. Mothers and children lie wounded or dying as armed Turks breach the city walls on a ladder. You can almost hear their cries and feel the uproar and terror. As one of the founders of the Munich School of Greek artists, Vryzakis’ paintings fuelled patriotism among Greeks - and Philhellenes - who believed their cause was rightful and had God’s backing.
Grandma’s Favourite by Georgios Iakovidis (1893)

Credit: Thomas Gravanis
The intimate bond between grandparent and grandchild is one of Greece’s most endearing cultural touchstones. Georgis Iakovidis, among the last great champions of the Munich School, carved out a name for himself as “the painter of childhood”. Many of his works, such as this delightful example, inimitably captured the primal relationship between grandchildren and their elderly grandparents. Here, the bronze fruit plate cements the artist’s mastery of still life techniques; while the infant’s red socks nod to Impressionism. What shines brightest though is Iakovidis’ profound insight into the psychology of the connection between these two diametrically opposed life stages. Fun fact: Iakovidis would later become one of the first directors of the newly-established National Gallery.
On the Terrace by Iakovos Rizos (1897)

Credit: Thomas Gravanis
We might have guessed that Iakovos Rizos studied art in Paris. This luxurious painting, set on the terrace of a neoclassical abode in Plaka, oozes the euphoric spirit of the Belle Epoque and the artistic milieu of the late 19th century. Rizos’ oeuvre of “beautiful, elegant women in palaces or gardens” marks a dramatic gear shift from the predominant themes of war and Hellenism that defined Greek art in previous decades. Here, a winsome sunset cloaks the Acropolis, casting its blushing light over a trio of leisurely protagonists who represent the wealthy bourgeois life. A handsome Cavalry officer recites verse to the evident delight of two stylish Athenian ladies (some say it’s Prince Nikolaos, potential heir to the throne, and known for his romantic pursuits). Rizos may sidestep the Impressionist doctrines employed to great effect by his contemporaries, but the enduring charm of this painting lies more in the wonderful feeling it evokes.
To read this article in full, please visit: thisisathens.org
Ellinopoula: A Unique Platform That Makes Greek For Kids Exciting
As we celebrate International Greek Language Day on February 9th, Greek diaspora parents worldwide face the challenge of how to pass on the Greek language and heritage to their children.
Ellinopoula is an award-winning e-platform that aims to give second and third-generation Greek kids the opportunity to learn the language in a fun and modern way by harnessing technology.
Many parents want their kids to learn Greek but do not have the means or the time to devote to language lessons. This is where Ellinopoula comes into play. Integrating learning Greek with Greek mythology, history, and culture in fun games, engaging videos, and interactive activities to inspire kids to learn Greek.
The platform’s innovative approach has led to its winning gold at the Education Leaders Awards for the past two years in a row. In 2021, it was recognized as the best Online and Distance Learning Platform, and also won gold awards for Digital Education and Innovation in Teaching.
Embassy Of France In Greece
Location: Leof. Vasilissis Sofias 7, Athens
More information can be found in French and Greek on the embassy's official website.
Follow the French embassy on Facebook.
Why Do Greeks Consider Tuesday The 13th Unlucky?
The main reason Tuesday the 13th is not a very popular day has to do with Christian Orthodoxy and is linked to the fall of Constantinople on that fateful date.
Byzantine empire falls on Tuesday the 13th
The fall of the capital of the Byzantine Empire on Tuesday, April 13, 1204, to the Fourth Crusade was a bleak day for Hellenism.
However, Tuesday, May 29, 1453, was even worse, as Constantinople fell again, this time to the Ottoman Empire, followed by almost four hundred years of Ottoman rule across Greece and the subsequent loss of all Greek territories in Asia Minor.
Where does the thirteen come from on Tuesday, May 29? Just add the numbers of the year 1+4+5+3 for the full sum of 13.
However, there are other reasons Greeks disliked the number thirteen long before Constantinople and Byzantium.
Thirteen is a number that follows the perfection of the number twelve. In addition, the gods of Olympus were twelve, there are twelve months in a year, twelve hours in a day, twelve hours of the night, twelve labors of Hercules, and twelve signs of the zodiac.
Philip II of Macedonia offended the twelve gods and died right after he erected his statue next to the twelve gods.
As for Christian Greeks, the number twelve represents the number of apostles who spread the word of Christ. Also, the 13th chapter of Revelation speaks of the coming of the Antichrist.
Finally, superstitious Greeks dislike Tuesday because, in Greek, Tuesday is Triti, meaning Third, the third day of the week. Since bad luck comes in threes, there’s not much to like about Triti, or Tuesday.
Originally published on: greekreporter.com
Recent Movies & TV Shows You Didn't Know Were Filmed In Greece
1. Glass Onion: A Knives Out Mystery

📍Spetses, Greece. Credit: @billakosssss
In this 2022 movie, the world-renowned detective Benoit Blanc unravels a gripping mystery set against the stunning backdrop of Greece. This mystery film, sprinkled with humor, will keep you guessing from beginning to end. The crisp and picturesque Greek imagery adds an extra layer of allure to the story. Filmed on Spetses in 2021, the adventure begins in this captivating island before transitioning to the enchanting Amanzoe's Villa 20 in Porto Heli. The shift in locations brings a dynamic element to the film, contributing to its visual richness and showcasing the diverse beauty that Greece has to offer. Director Rian Johnson described the experience as "a summer vacation where we also made a movie," capturing the essence of the unique filming journey.

📍Hydra, Greece. Credit: @lesbisousrouges
This American musical drama television miniseries, adapted from the 2019 novel, starts unfolding its compelling narrative in the year 1977. This drama, blending romance and music, takes you on a journey across three vivid locations: the vibrant streets of Los Angeles, the soulful atmosphere of New Orleans, and the enchanting landscapes of Greece. Following the completion of the album and the realization of genuine emotions for Billy, Daisy makes a bold move, hightailing it to Greece, specifically the picturesque island of Hydra.

📍Paxoi, Greece. Credit: @nick.haji

📍Chiliadou Beach, Euboea. Credit: Greg Patrikios

📍Mykonos, Greece. Credit: @minogiannisvalantis

📍Malia, Crete. Credit: @jess.thoe
This upcoming coming-of-age drama follows three British teenage girls on a rites-of-passage holiday in the lively party town of Malia, Crete. As they embrace the thrill of drinking and clubbing, anticipating the best summer of their lives, the narrative takes a powerful twist when the party unexpectedly grinds to a halt. Filmed against the vibrant backdrop of Malia, known for its energetic atmosphere and bustling nightlife, the movie weaves a compelling story, tapping into the profound theme of consent. Malia's lively streets and dynamic ambiance not only set the stage for the characters' adventures but also enhance the film's immersive portrayal of youth and the complexities of their experiences, promising an emotionally charged cinematic journey.
Sofa-Bed With Storage
Be Still My Beating Heart
Literally! Summer brings visitors, and last week was a case in point: 2 visitors, South American, traveling around Europe, with 'I love Athens' goggles firmly implanted. Until Saturday late afternoon, after a full day of hiking around town in the heat, we found ourselves at the top of Lycabetus, on what must have been our 5th coffee of the day.
One of our group started to have heart palpitations, rapid heartbeat, trouble breathing. This lead very quickly to him being flat on his back on the ground, breathing rapidly, heart racing, arm numbness, panicked.
He was travelling with full traveller's health insurance, so we called his provider and were told to go directly to the Henry Dunant Hospital. Twenty minutes later, we were there.
Fortunately, my friend was perfectly fine: not enough food, dehydrated, sunstroke and an overdose of caffeine. His heart was over-taxed, but eventually settled.
But the treatment we received at the emergency section of the hospital was great.
My friend was seen by a nurse, a cardiologist and a neurologist, each of whom did a thorough exam and diagnosis, in English. We were there for an hour in total.
The whole experience was efficient, professional, competent. Which is, I suppose, what an emergency room visit should be. OK, it's a private hospital, but the whole process was flawless: speed of admission, 'trust' & bedside manner, English language service, medical explanation and prescription, discharge process. I have been in only a handful of hospitals in my life, but I could find no fault in this visit.
Lesson 1: Eat properly, don't spend all day in the sun, and take it easy on the caffeine.
Lesson 2: Sometimes things aren't as bad as they could be.
I know that many of us have had bad experiences with the Greek healthcare system; I have heard endless horror stories and reasons to complain - from both the public and the private hospital system. Last weekend, I had the opposite experience - and it's important to share that too.
Until next week,
Jack
Hospital "Henry Dunant" (Νοσοκομείο "ΕΡΡΙΚΟΣ ΝΤΥΝΑΝ")
107 Mesogion Ave.
Tel: +30 210 6972000
www.dunant.gr
In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…
Temple Of Apollo At Bassae
The magnificent ancient temple visible today was not the first to stand on this rugged mountain site. Excavations have shown that the foundations of the Temple of Apollo reused blocks from at least one Archaic predecessor. Artifacts from the 7th, 6th, and 5th centuries have been discovered, including some terracotta decoration. Votive offerings of many periods have also been uncovered, dating all the way back to Geometric times.
History
The present Temple of Apollo Epicurius was built sometime between 450 and 400 BC, around the time of the Parthenon in Athens. Its style seems to indicate a date prior to the Parthenon, perhaps designed 450-440 BC with a completion date around 425 BC. (Other sources date it to shortly after the Parthenon.) The ancient writer Pausanius attributed the design to Iktinos, architect of the Parthenon, but so far this has not been independently confirmed.
The temple's isolated location and unusual dedication (epikourios means "helper" or "protector") have kept scholars occupied for over 200 years. One explanation is that the villagers of nearby Figalos prayed to Apollo for protection from a plague and built the temple in gratitude for his assistance. Another theory is that Apollo was considered the protector of the Arcadians, especially mercenaries, who funded the temple.
Whatever the reason for its construction, the Temple of Apollo Epicurius was no modest, back-woods shrine. It is built on a grand scale with great precision and architectural creativity. Its combination of Doric and Ionic orders in a single structure was quite daring, and its Corinthian capital is the oldest known example in the ancient world.
The temple at Bassae remained well-preserved over the centuries, thanks primarily to its isolation. All but forgotten, it was too far up in the mountains for looting of materials to be practical anyway. The ancient ruin was not rediscovered until 1765, when the French architect Joachim Bocher stumbled on it by accident.
In 1811-12, British and German antiquarians poked around the ruins a bit and brought the metope sculptures back to their own countries. The cella friezes were bought by the British Government for £19,000 and placed in the British Museum, where they remain today.
The Greek Archaeological Society restored the temple from 1902 to 1906, re-erecting some fallen columns and restoring the cella walls. Another renovation was carried out in the 1960s, during which some fragments of the frieze were excavated.
A "temporary" protective tent was erected over the temple in 1987 that still remains in place today. It keeps out the extremes of the mountain weather, but obscures much of the architectural beauty of this celebrated Classical temple.
To get there
• Address: Off Rte. 76 and then up a 1-lane road, Bassae, 27061
• Phone: 26260/22254
• Cost: €2
• Hours: Daily 8:30-3
Source: Sacred-destinations.com
TUI To Cooperate With Local Hotels
Leading European tour operator TUI is moving ahead with the creation of more than 10 hotels in Greece in cooperation with local hotel chains Grecotel and Atlantica, with which it has a long history in the joint development of hotel units, according to sources from TUI Hellas.
This reflects the growing tourism interest of the group in Greece.
This year TUI brought more than 2 million tourists into the country in cooperation with 2,800 hotels across Greece.
To read more, please visit ekathimerini.com
By Stathis Kousounis
To Tip Or Not To Tip In Greece
I read a recent blog in the Economist about tipping rules for hospitality services in the US – and I nearly fell off my chair. According to the piece, the ‘Gratuity Guide’ of the American Hotel & Lodging Association suggests up to $2 per person for the driver of the shuttle bus from the airport to the hotel; up to $5 per bag for porters; door staff should get up to $2 for hailing a taxi from the queue outside; and housekeeping should be left up to $5 a night. The lucky concierge should get $5 for making a restaurant reservation and $10 if he has something more difficult to do, like find a tricky theatre ticket. This 'culture of tipping' is being questioned in parts of the US, where a number of restaurants have started to apply a 'no tips' policy.
So, I’ve suddenly paid more in tips than I have for my hotel room. What are the comparative ‘rules’ for Greece?
According to WhoToTip.net: In Greece, it is customary to tip the porter/bellboy, around €1 per bag. Tip the housekeeper €1 per day, leaving the tip on the bedside table or bed. You can tip the concierge a few Euros if he provides excellent service. In restaurants, tipping is expected for good service, especially if you are a tourist. Some restaurants in Greece will round up the bill, so you should check this before tipping. You can tip between 5% and 10% and you should leave the tip on the table, give it to the waiter directly, or tell the waiter you don’t want change. In some restaurants, the owner does not allow their staff to keep the tips. You may want to ask if this is the case, because if they don’t, you are just paying more for your meal. Taxis don't expect a tip, but you may round up the fare (+/- 5%) if you wish.
And so on… So many rules that I wasn’t aware of…! My Greek friends say “Bah, round up the bill or leave a couple euros for good service – that’s all you need to know.” (Then again, is it great service when they ask you 10 times if you need something else, or when they leave you to enjoy your coffee in peace??)
In the end, I think that tipping is a personal choice – but one that I always encourage. Especially in a city like Athens that should know how to treat visitors, to provide good customer service, and a culture that apparently dishes out ‘filoxenia’ as second nature. When someone gets it really right, I am generous. What’s more, a generous tip normally comes with my verbal appreciation of their great service – as in “We really appreciated your great service today – you were great.” Maybe this is more valuable than one or two euros, and encourages more of the same? Perhaps. In any case, I tend to fall on the side of generosity, and put it in the category of ‘karma’… ;)
So, tip or don’t tip, but do show appreciation for someone who goes beyond their sub-minimum-wage job description to make your hour-long coffee stop more pleasant.
Until next week,
Jack
The Economist – Gratuitous Expense
WhoToTip.net – Tipping in Greece