In fact, archaeologists have discovered more than 300,000 artefacts, including jewellery, coins, amphorae, oil lamps, perfume vases, and marble statues. During the metro construction works, more than 5,000 tombs and graves were uncovered, some of them containing exquisite golden wreaths.

These relics of Thessaloniki’s ancient past have been in what would have been the thriving commercial center of the ancient city, which, after Constantinople, was the second most important conurbation in the Byzantine Empire.

The progress of the city's network of 18 stations was severely stalled due to the discovery of so many antiquities. It is now expected to be operational next year.

'The quality and the quantity of the findings is really impressive. They reveal the continuity of the history of Thessaloniki and Macedonia.' Yannis Mylopoulos, the chairman of Attiko Metro, the company building the network, told The Telegraph.

My mother is in Athens this week, visiting from Canada after an absence of many years. She is not Greek, but over the years has picked up the language, and many of the customs and ‘-isms’ of being in a bi-cultural family. Unfortunately (!) this doesn’t mean that she does my laundry, nor that she delivers food to my door, but it does mean that we grew up following many of the traditions and cultural norms of ‘being Greek’…

It’s really great to have her here. She has very interesting observations and comments about daily life in Athens, even after a couple days here.

“I forgot that it’s safer to walk on the street than on the sidewalk!”
“There sure are a lot of empty shop windows.”
“That old abandoned factory would be full of squatters in most other cities.”
“I love seeing people out for a walk with their kids.”
“Is that a rooster I hear??”

We’ve been sharing a lot of memories, with my extended family – the time when I refused to come out of the water at the beach, the time when we all went to Delphi, the summers we spent in the village, the time when the whole ‘expat’ family was here together, etc… My mother’s visit reminds me of simpler days, of a time when different things mattered, and everything seemed possible. Those days are certainly behind us – but maybe, like a circle, they’re somewhere up ahead…

Until next week…

Jack

In this weekly space, keep up with ‘Jack’ as he navigates daily life in Athens… Anecdotes, stories, hits & misses, the good, the bad and, well, the rest…

The waterfront promenade

The optical illusion of cargo ships hovering above the calm, dense waters of Thermaikos Gulf is one of the most characteristic sightings of Thessaloniki. The best way to enjoy it is by strolling along the Nea Paralia waterfront (buses 3, 5 and 6 will get you there). This is the locals’ favorite promenade -be it on foot, by bike, pushing a stroller or holding a dog leash. The partial renovation of this walk has endowed it with a contemporary playground that feels like an exciting science experiment and a peaceful garden of roses. Part of the waterfront will remain under construction through 2013 but this should not prevent you from ending your walk at the emblematic White Tower to explore Thessaloniki’s history through the interactive exhibits of this evocative city museum.

Roman arches, Byzantine churches and Turkish baths

A walk in downtown Thessaloniki can be easily made into a treasure-hunt for architectural gemshidden among the city’s contemporary buildings. If you want to take it in chronological order, start by gazing at the sculpted decorations on the Arch of Roman Emperor Galerius. Take a leap four centuries ahead by visiting Agia Sofia, a byzantine church built in resemblance to that of Constantinople. Absorb the Ottoman aura of Bey Hamam, also know as Baths of Paradise, and feel the city’s perennial commercial spirit in the Bezesteni fabrics market. Stroll down the majestic Aristotelous Square loggias, a piece of Ernest Hebrard architecture, and end your walk at the wharfs of Thessaloniki’s port, where the imposing early 20th-century Customs Building stands next to the city’s contemporary Photography and Cinema Museums.

Article and Photography by Isabella Zampetaki, Travel Writer

Source: Visitgreece.gr

The English have liked many varieties of samphire for eons. Typically, they pickle them – so do the Greeks. Samphire is mentioned by Shakespeare in King Lear: Half-way down Hangs one that gathers samphire; dreadful trade! (Act IV, Scene VI). In the UK it is a dangerous business to collect this delicious plant.

In Greece, it isn’t so dangerous! On Ikaria, it grows along the rocky backdrop on the main beach, Messakti, as well as all along the coast, indeed, sometimes in treacherous locales.

Samphire is one of the healthiest greens. Its therapeutic values have been known since antiquity. Both Dioscorides, the father of pharmacology, and Pliny, renowned botanist, wrote about its properties. Hippocrates recommended it for its diuretic and detoxifying abilities. It is chock full of antioxidants and has use as such in cosmetics, too. It is said to brighten age spots and to lend a healthy glow to skin.

It is rich in iodine and is packed with phytochemicals that protect the liver, heart and cellular DNA. It is also rich in vitamins A, C, B2, B15, amino acids, and minerals, such as iron, calcium and magnesium phosphorus, calcium, silica, zinc, manganese and vitamin D.

There are several ways to “cure” samphire and many ways to enjoy it. I typically blanch it in generously salted water for a few minutes, drain and then steep in vinegar and salt for 24 hours. Then, I drain the leaves and preserve them in extra virgin olive oil. Kritama make for one of the best ouzo mezedes. I love to serve them with grilled fish, too.

To make pickled samphire/kritama:

Collect 1 pound / half a kilo of the leaves. You want to collect only the tenderest leaves and buds. The time to do this is in May and early June in Greece.
Wash them very well.

Bring a large pot of generously salted water (6 tablespoons to 1 ½ quarts/liters water) to a boil and blanch the samphire for 3-5 minutes, just to soften. The leaves will still be bright green and crunchy.

Rinse and cool.

Pack the leaves tightly in jars then add 2 teaspoons salt and fill the jars with vinegar. Close the lid, turn over a few times, then let stand for 24 hours. Drain, place back in the jars, and cover with olive oil.

By Diane Kochilas
http://dianekochilas.com