Mageiria (pl.) are the old places with open kitchens that were the working-class restaurants of a generation and more ago. Customers chose their meal from what they saw simmering in the pots of the day, usually several of the many casseroles, one-pot bean and vegetable stews and more that are part of the Greek culinary tradition. Kavatza, which means a little something stashed away for use later, is a hip new “old-world” mageirio in the heart of Kolonaki, downtown Athens’ chicest neighborhood. Inside, the space is a combo of Greek island white and discreet stone walls.
The kitchen is open and pots like the ones shown here simmer with all the classics of the Greek home kitchen: greens and pork avgolemon, which is called fricasse; bean soup, fasolada; tangy, rich beef stew in wine and tomato sauce and more. There is a lovely array of vegetarian specials on display, too. I loved the whole wheat and vegetable salad, the shredded carrot salad, the beets, herbs, and olive oil glistening under the lights, and more. The prices are reasonable.
If you’re in downtown Athens and out and about shopping in Kolonaki, Kavatza is worth a stop.
Spefsipou 30 Kolonaki, Athens.
Tel 210 724 1832
Author: Diane Kochilas