With the combination of Greek Easter and 20+ degree spring weather, the long weekend called for a road trip. So we packed up a car with a few friends and headed out on Friday towards Pelio. It was my first time in Pelio since I was a kid – and it won’t be my last.

Pelio is actually the mountain range in the southeastern part of Greece’s Thessalia region, easily reachable by car, a few hours drive from Athens via Volos. This is an area of beautiful mountain drives, hiking trails, springs and waterfalls, beaches and even ski hills in winter. Google tells me there are 24 villages nestled across the region, with beautiful traditional homes and mansions, many of which have been turned into hotels and inns. This is the place to go for long mountain drives, dramatic scenery and lovely beaches.

We stayed in the village of Milies, in a stone-built inn overlooking a deep valley – more or less centrally located for easy driving access to the region. For Easter we had booked lunch at a place called Lagou Raxi. This is a very nice ‘country hotel’, newly built on a mountain-top in the village of Lafkos in South Pelio, with seriously stunning views down to the sea. Lagou Raxi is a beautiful spacious property, with a fantastic swimming pool, nicely decorated and delicious food in the restaurant. The owners, Sue and Christian, are fellow expats who have made Lafkos their home and have clearly poured their hearts into this unique property. In fact, Sue and Christian become your hosts during your stay here, and make you feel right at home. But this is much more than just a hotel – they also offer scheduled activities throughout the year, from yoga to painting to hiking. Not hard to get used to this…

One thing is for sure – I will add Pelio to my ever-growing list of must-see places in Greece.

Until next week,

Jack


Lagou Raxi
Lafkos, South Pelio
+30 24230 65144
Find them HERE!

If you have visited Greece, you must have seen the famous Greek salad named "Choriatiki salata" (village salad) listed on most restaurants' menus. It's undeniably a Greek summer in a bowl and you can make it in the comfort of your own kitchen wherever you are in the world.

 

Enjoy!

To view this recipe in full, please visit: Lemon & Olives

 To read the complete list, please visit: Kids Love Greece

Have you seen all the main sites in Athens and are looking to explore more a bit further out? Here are our favourite picks from our friend Matt Barrett's recommendations. All of the destinations can be reached in an hour or less from central Athens.

Rafina

One of my favorite places is Rafina on the other side of Mount Pendeli and Himitos. It's like driving to an island. Every year I visit Athens, whether it is summer or winter, I make a point to spend one afternoon in Rafina. If I can't get my family or friends to come I go alone. But it's almost like a pilgrimage for me. There are numerous restaurants that specialize in fried squid (kalamarakia), small fried fish(mareedes), shark with garlic sauce (galeos me skordaya) and other things from the sea. The most popular one is Agoni Grammi, the last one on the dock or the first one you come to when you get off the ferry. If you love fried fish, beer, ouzo, wine and afternoons where you can drink and relax and not worry about tonight or tomorrow, spend an afternoon in Rafina.

There are ferries going to the Cyclades and Evia, going in and out of the harbor and lots of fishing boats. It's just like being on an island. There is a long beach there that is usually only crowded on Sunday. The town itself has a few too many apartment buildings for my taste but the waterfront is nice. There is nothing like spending the day with some close friends, some fried fish and several bottles of ouzo. For more on Rafina, please click HERE.


Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion

The temple at Cape Sounion was the first and last sign of 'civilization' Athenian sailors would see to and from their journeys. It's a magnificent site on top of a hill on the tip of the Attika peninsula. Not a bad place to watch the sunset either after a late lunch at a beach side taverna and there are two pretty good ones right below the temple. The small beach has sea almost as clean as you will find on the islands. Its one of the nicest beaches within striking distance of Athens. For more on Cape Sounion, please click HERE.


Lavrion

Lavrion which is the closest town to Sounion, has a lively waterfront and town center full of restaurants, ouzeries, cafe-bars and a very nice fish market. In fact you should stop and see the Lavrion mineral museum as well as the ancient site of Lavrion which has one of the best ancient ampitheaters. If it were not for the silver mines of Lavrion the ancient Greeks would not have defeated the Persians in the battle of Salamis since that was how they were able to build their fleet. For more on Lavrion, please click HERE.


Marathon

Everyone has heard the story of the Persian defeat at Marathon at the hands of the Athenians. Imagine marching several thousand miles only to be wiped out 27 miles from the city you came to conquer by an army a fraction of your size. Marathon is an interesting place to visit. There is not much to see of the battlefield really. There is a burial mound in an olive grove and a plaque that commemorates the great victory and a nice statue. You are not supposed to climb up the mound but from the looks of the worn footpath many people do, including me. There is also the place where the race begins. The beach at Marathon is pretty nice and nearby Schinias is even better. But the most amazing thing about Marathon is the marble dam that holds the water that supplies Athens. It is the only marble dam in the world and it is quite spectacular. For more on Marathon, please click HERE.


Schinias

Schinias is the most beautiful beach in Attika. It is one of the few beaches that has a pine forest that comes right down to the sea and there are several fish tavernas which run on diesel generators since there is no electricity there. The sea is shallow, generally clean, and if you come in the off-season which means anytime but August and weekends in July, you may be surprised at how few people are here. Because it is shallow you don't need more than a few days of sunshine for it to be warm enough to swim and this is usually the first and last place I swim every year. For more on Schinias, please click HERE.


Vouliagmeni

Besides being somewhere to go for the day, Vouliagmeni is close enough to Athens so that you can stay on the beach and still get into the city to see the sites. Astir beach at Vouliagmeni is one of the nicest beaches near the city and it is one of the few beaches in the world that has the ruins of a temple, to Apollo, the Sun God, of course. You have to pay to get into the beach but once you get in there are umbrellas, cabanas to change, beach chairs and a bar and snack bar.  For more on Vouliagmeni, please click HERE.

Porto Germenos

Porto Germanos is the best place to swim in Attika. The sea is postcard blue in color and the beach and town sit at the end of a large bay that faces west, with pine covered mountains on three sides. There is a modern looking town with houses and small apartment buildings, like condos, but the impression, at least in early May, is of a small coastal village somewhere more remote than Attika. If you have a free day and want to swim in the kind of sea you usually find in the Sporades, its worth the trip. But the most impressive part of Porto Germanos is the fortress and ruins of ancient Egosthena. The 4th Century BC fortress itself is the most impressive in Greece from that period with much of the walls and the towers still intact. For more on Porto Germenos, please click HERE.

Greece is one of the 28 award winners of the 2015 European Union Prize for Cultural Heritage/Europa Nostra Awards. The winners of the award, considered Europe’s most prestigious prize in the heritage field, were recently announced by the European Commission and Europa Nostra.

The 28 award winners, selected from 263 applications submitted by organizations and individuals from 29 countries, are honored for outstanding achievements in four categories: 1) Conservation, 2) Research and Digitization, 3) Dedicated Service to Heritage, and 4) Education, Training and Awareness-raising.

“This year’s winners are powerful examples of creativity and innovation at work for Europe’s cultural heritage”, said Plácido Domingo, President of Europa Nostra.

“They also demonstrate that heritage matters to Europe and its citizens. We trust that, under the leadership of President Juncker and Commissioner Navracsics, the European Union’s strategy for an integrated approach to cultural heritage will be further developed and implemented.”

Award for Conservation
Antouaniko Mansion in Chios

Award for Research and Digitization
HERMES: Hermoupolis Digital Heritage Management, Syros

Award for Research and Digitization
Restoration of Lasithi Plateau’s Windmills with Perforated Sails

“Cultural heritage is one of Europe’s biggest assets. It brings countless cultural, economic, social and environmental benefits to all of us”, said Tibor Navracsics, European Commissioner for Education, Culture, Youth and Sport.

“We all need to keep working together to help communities and citizens take ownership of our heritage, make it part of our daily lives and preserve it for the generations to come”.


To read the complete article please visit: GreekTravelPages

Antiparos Beach Houses are two lovely adjacent houses on the picturesque Greek island of Antiparos. Situated on the beach, yet only a five-minute walk from the village, both houses are ideal for those seeking an easy and relaxing holiday. The houses have sea views and are set in a large 6000-square-metre garden with flowers, fig trees and olive trees. Just outside the garden gate is a long, sandy beach. Terraces are set up for outdoor eating and lounging. The village, and port, of Antiparos has shops and restaurants as well as a car-free meandering main street.

The houses are built in traditional Cycladic style, in white with stone walls. They are fully equipped and tastefully furnished. A baby bed is available. The houses can be rented separately or together.

Accommodation Beach House: Large living and dining room has a built-in double bed and sofas that can be used as another bed. There is an open kitchen with marble counters. The hall off the living/dining room leads to a recently refurbished shower room and spacious bedroom with three single beds (bunk bed, plus one). Both rooms open onto the terrace with views over the garden and sea. Sleeps 4-6.

Beach Duplex: Duplex with two large rooms, each of which has en suite shower room and kitchenette. The downstairs room has a double bed, while the upstairs has three single beds. Both levels have a terrace, with the one on the lower floor stretching into the garden and shaded by an attractive eucalyptus tree. Sleeps 5.

I was asked by a visiting friend “How much do I tip the waiter?” The rest of us looked at each other and smiled – this is a favourite topic of conversation and debate… My group of friends is from all over – Greece, France, Canada, Argentina, America, etc. – each with a different perspective on tipping etiquette. From my own ‘let’s leave 15%’, to someone else’s ‘don’t leave anything’, and the natural questions of most visitors, I’m often left wondering what’s the right thing to do in Greece.

I read a recent blog in the Economist about tipping rules for hospitality services in the US – and I nearly fell off my chair. According to the piece, the ‘Gratuity Guide’ of the American Hotel & Lodging Association suggests up to $2 per person for the driver of the shuttle bus from the airport to the hotel; up to $5 per bag for porters; door staff should get up to $2 for hailing a taxi from the queue outside; and housekeeping should be left up to $5 a night. The lucky concierge should get $5 for making a restaurant reservation and $10 if he has something more difficult to do, like find a tricky theatre ticket. This 'culture of tipping' is being questioned in parts of the US, where a number of restaurants have started to apply a 'no tips' policy.

So, I’ve suddenly paid more in tips than I have for my hotel room. What are the comparative ‘rules’ for Greece?

According to WhoToTip.net: In Greece, it is customary to tip the porter/bellboy, around €1 per bag. Tip the housekeeper €1 per day, leaving the tip on the bedside table or bed. You can tip the concierge a few Euros if he provides excellent service.  In restaurants, tipping is expected for good service, especially if you are a tourist. Some restaurants in Greece will round up the bill, so you should check this before tipping. You can tip between 5% and 10% and you should leave the tip on the table, give it to the waiter directly, or tell the waiter you don’t want change. In some restaurants, the owner does not allow their staff to keep the tips. You may want to ask if this is the case, because if they don’t, you are just paying more for your meal. Taxis don't expect a tip, but you may round up the fare (+/- 5%) if you wish.

And so on… So many rules that I wasn’t aware of…! My Greek friends say “Bah, round up the bill or leave a couple euros for good service – that’s all you need to know.” (Then again, is it great service when they ask you 10 times if you need something else, or when they leave you to enjoy your coffee in peace??)

In the end, I think that tipping is a personal choice – but one that I always encourage. Especially in a city like Athens that should know how to treat visitors, to provide good customer service, and a culture that apparently dishes out ‘filoxenia’ as second nature. When someone gets it really right, I am generous. What’s more, a generous tip normally comes with my verbal appreciation of their great service – as in “We really appreciated your great service today – you were great.” Maybe this is more valuable than one or two euros, and encourages more of the same? Perhaps. In any case, I tend to fall on the side of generosity, and put it in the category of ‘karma’… ;)

So, tip or don’t tip, but do show appreciation for someone who goes beyond their sub-minimum-wage job description to make your hour-long coffee stop more pleasant.

Until next week,

Jack

The Economist – Gratuitous Expense

WhoToTip.net – Tipping in Greece

 

Dyeing red Easter eggs is a symbol of Orthodox Easter and a long-standing tradition. Although it is also quite common to dye eggs in other colors, Greek Easter is rarely or almost never celebrated without red eggs!

 

The tradition of cracking red eggs when the clock strikes midnight into Easter Sunday symbolizes new life, much like when a chick cracks its shell and comes to life. The egg-cracking game or "tsougrisma" as it is called in Greece is an integral part of Easter celebrations and the person with the strongest egg is said they will have good luck for the whole year!

 

Since Greek Easter eggs are not just for celebration purposes, but are also meant to be eaten, here are 4 simple tips for vibrant and perfectly cooked Easter eggs:

 

1. Leave the eggs out of the fridge for at least 3 hours before boiling them.

2. Boil the eggs in cold water–if you place the eggs in boiling water their shells are more than likely to crack.

3. Keep in mind that fresh eggs are less likely to crack, but will be a bit more difficult to peel.

4. Add a pinch of salt in the water; this will help prevent your eggs from cracking while boiling and make them easier to peel.

Easter in Greece is one of, if not the biggest holiday on the calendar. This means lots of family and friends, and lots of delicious traditions in the kitchen. We love this article from Delish where chef and successful New York restaurateur Michael Psilakis gives us his 'how to's' for a perfect and traditional Greek Easter feast!

Psilakis grew up with old-country influences as a first-generation Greek American. "Greek was my first language. I grew up just like My Big Fat Greek Wedding," says Psilakis. "That was my life, and everything we do (and did) revolves around the pride that my parents instilled in me."

Always on the menu: a special soup made from a lemon and egg sauce with plump dumplings of lamb meat braised in a liquid for over two hours. Following the special soup was the real star: a whole spit-roasted lamb. When Psilakis was a kid, his father built a "temple," as he calls it, in the backyard specifically for roasting whole animals on a spit. "We roasted 20-30 animals a year!" remembers Psilakis. Early in the morning on the day after Easter, he and his father would prepare for the Olympic day of eating by hoisting the lamb on the spit. After rotating for hours over a hot flame, the tender meat was ready for the oversized group of family and friends to descend, sticking forks into the lamb and eating it right off the spit.

Everything on the Easter menu is served family-style, including a big salad with lemony dressing and moussaka — lightly fried eggplant and zucchini layered with potatoes and lamb and topped with béchamel, all sopped up with the soft and sweet Easter bread. (If you don't have time to bake, many bakeries sell Easter bread during the holiday.) But the most important item on the table: red-dyed eggs.

Duplicating a feast equal in magnitude to this one may be a bit challenging without a roasting shrine and a team of family members to help out with all the dirty work. No worries: Chef Psilakis shares a few of his classic recipes that are robust, toothsome, and easy enough to prepare at home.

 
Psilakis' Recipes

 

 

 

 

To read this article in full, please visit delish.com