In Rustic Tavernas, Classic Cuisine Gets Its Due

WINE surely isn’t supposed to be brown. Not anywhere. True, a Provençal rosé can have a hint of rustiness in its depth, but flat-out brown — surely not a good sign. But Crete is full of surprises, and when you order a copper carafe of local wine at the Old Phoenix Hotel on the south coast, near the town of Loutro, it’s possible the wine that comes out of it may even be the color of fresh engine oil. more from dining guide »